Gripped

GRIZZLY GROOVE

AD 5.7 300 m seven pitches

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First Ascent: Jasmin Caton, Steve Ogle, Vince Hempsall on July 26, 2017.

Gear: One full set of cams from 0.2" to 3" plus doubles of a #1 and #2. Two 60-metre ropes and webbing necessary for rappels.

P1: Low angle slab to large ledge (5.7 45 m).

P2: Head up slab and discontinu­ous cracks (5.5 60 m).

P3: More slab and fun cracks (5.5 60 m).

P4: Up and right on the steep wall near the arch (5.7 60 m).

P5: Some loose blocks to the trianglesh­aped horn on the north side of the arch (5.7 20 m).

P6: Step right, then down-climb three metres before traversing right and into a dihedral. Place gear then continue up and right to another fist-sized corner crack. Follow this to its terminatio­n then step left into easy terrain to the top. The quality of rock on this pitch is spectacula­r and the jamming is excellent (5.7 60 m).

P7: If you’re so inclined, climb onto the top of the arch. From a spot about 10 m down the east side of the main ridge make an awkward move over a chasm onto the arch proper and climb the easy terrain (5.7) making sure to go over the large boulder feature rather than around it. Descend the way you came to the main ridge and follow the descent back down the slabs.

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