AD 5.7 300 m seven pitches

Gripped - - THE ROUTE -

First As­cent: Jas­min Ca­ton, Steve Ogle, Vince Hemp­sall on July 26, 2017.

Gear: One full set of cams from 0.2" to 3" plus dou­bles of a #1 and #2. Two 60-me­tre ropes and web­bing nec­es­sary for rap­pels.

P1: Low an­gle slab to large ledge (5.7 45 m).

P2: Head up slab and dis­con­tin­u­ous cracks (5.5 60 m).

P3: More slab and fun cracks (5.5 60 m).

P4: Up and right on the steep wall near the arch (5.7 60 m).

P5: Some loose blocks to the tri­an­gle­shaped horn on the north side of the arch (5.7 20 m).

P6: Step right, then down-climb three me­tres be­fore travers­ing right and into a di­he­dral. Place gear then con­tinue up and right to an­other fist-sized cor­ner crack. Fol­low this to its ter­mi­na­tion then step left into easy ter­rain to the top. The qual­ity of rock on this pitch is spec­tac­u­lar and the jam­ming is ex­cel­lent (5.7 60 m).

P7: If you’re so in­clined, climb onto the top of the arch. From a spot about 10 m down the east side of the main ridge make an awk­ward move over a chasm onto the arch proper and climb the easy ter­rain (5.7) mak­ing sure to go over the large boul­der fea­ture rather than around it. De­scend the way you came to the main ridge and fol­low the de­scent back down the slabs.

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