Notes from the top

Gripped - - RE­VIEWS - Chris Van Leu­ven is an award-win­ning writer and climber.

6,300-me­tre peak is dwarfed by nearby K6, they called the 1,300 m AI4 Lit­tle Brother. “You can’t see K6 from the glacier we were climb­ing from but when we got up high we could al­most spit on it,” Roskel­ley said.

Their fi­nal route was one they’d eyed all month and it also their most dif­fi­cult one of the trip. “This one may have been named,” Roskel­ley said of the 20,400-foot peak.

“There is a Changi Tower that is not that far away. This is the Changi Tower in this val­ley ac­cord­ing to our tour op­er­a­tor. We call it Changi II.

“[Here] we got to do a lot more tech­ni­cal climb­ing. The gran­ite was spec­tac­u­lar and amaz­ing rock qual­ity and mixed climb­ing,” con­tin­ued Roskel­ley. They named their 1,300 m AI4 M6 Hard Tellin’ Not Knowin’.

With their trip com­ing to a close and so much left to do, the team took up the of­fer from their tour op­er­a­tor to store gear in bar­rels in op­er­a­tor’s garage and re­turn the fol­low­ing year. They be­lieve the area has years of first sa­cent po­ten­tial.

They also know that with­out Swen­son’s help they would never have vis­ited the cirque. “He’s our sen­sei and he showed us ev­ery­thing and helped with lo­gis­tics,” Ross said. “Not only did we get to do a lot of great climb­ing, the trip gave us years of projects to work on. The rec­om­men­da­tion to go there from him was a gift.”

Roskel­ley said of his first visit, “we’ve been pleas­antly sur­prised with Pak­istan. And it’s beau­ti­ful. Around ev­ery cor­ner is gi­ant moun­tains and huge rapids.”

Right: Jess Roskel­ley on Changi Tower II

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