Notes from the top
6,300-metre peak is dwarfed by nearby K6, they called the 1,300 m AI4 Little Brother. “You can’t see K6 from the glacier we were climbing from but when we got up high we could almost spit on it,” Roskelley said.
Their final route was one they’d eyed all month and it also their most difficult one of the trip. “This one may have been named,” Roskelley said of the 20,400-foot peak.
“There is a Changi Tower that is not that far away. This is the Changi Tower in this valley according to our tour operator. We call it Changi II.
“[Here] we got to do a lot more technical climbing. The granite was spectacular and amazing rock quality and mixed climbing,” continued Roskelley. They named their 1,300 m AI4 M6 Hard Tellin’ Not Knowin’.
With their trip coming to a close and so much left to do, the team took up the offer from their tour operator to store gear in barrels in operator’s garage and return the following year. They believe the area has years of first sacent potential.
They also know that without Swenson’s help they would never have visited the cirque. “He’s our sensei and he showed us everything and helped with logistics,” Ross said. “Not only did we get to do a lot of great climbing, the trip gave us years of projects to work on. The recommendation to go there from him was a gift.”
Roskelley said of his first visit, “we’ve been pleasantly surprised with Pakistan. And it’s beautiful. Around every corner is giant mountains and huge rapids.”
Right: Jess Roskelley on Changi Tower II