Be­yond Tape: the guide to climb­ing in­jury and pre­ven­tion

Gripped - - REVIEWS -

Mike Gable, DPT As climb­ing ma­tures as a sport, the avail­able re­sources to take it se­ri­ously as such dra­mat­i­cally in­creases. Coaches, gyms, and phys­io­ther­a­pists have gained an un­der­stand­ing of the biome­chan­ics of climb­ing in a way that was in its in­fancy but a gen­er­a­tion ago. Much of this de­vel­oped through prac­ti­cal ex­pe­ri­ence; but, in­creas­ingly, through aca­demic study within the broad par­a­digm of sports sci­ence and medicine. This has al­lowed youth to en­ter climb­ing with a view to be­com­ing high­level ath­letes and adults to main­tain a high stan­dard of per­for­mance decades after first be­com­ing cap­ti­vated by what was once a coun­ter­cul­tural pur­suit.

Be­yond Tape seeks to bring much of this ac­cu­mu­lated knowl­edge to bear on the prob­lem of avoid­ing in­juries and re­cov­er­ing from them should they oc­cur (some­what in­evitably). As ev­i­denced by its ex­ten­sive ref­er­ences, the book is rooted in med­i­cal re­search – com­bined with 15 years as a phys­i­cal ther­apy clinic owner/prac­ti­tioner. Cen­tral to the book is the un­der­stat­ing and ac­ti­va­tion of trig­ger points as­so­ci­ated with the mus­cu­loskele­tal sub­sys­tems that en­able one to per­form at a high stan­dard.

“What you re­ally need to know” sum­maries com­bine with anatom­i­cally de­tailed de­scrip­tions and con­comi­tant dis­cus­sion serve to give a com­pre­hen­sive per­spec­tive to a sub­ject much dis­cussed in locker rooms. A sense of all the phys­i­o­log­i­cal as­pects of climb­ing that have to come to­gether may make some seek pro­fes­sional help (so to speak), while oth­ers may delve deeper into the topic. In ei­ther case, this book is a great start­ing point.—Tom Valis

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