10 Questions
Mountain Runner and Fall Survivor Psyched on Climbing
At the end of August 2016, pro ultrarunner and Canadian Running magazine correspondent Adam Campbell was with Nick Elson and Dakota Jones on a big traverse in Rogers Pass when Campbell pulled a block off the mountain and fell over 60 metres. He nearly died. Two years later, he’s back pushing himself in the mountains.
1. How did you get into climbing?
My first-time climbing was at an Outward Bound leadership course in Northwestern Ontario. When I later took up mountain running, I found my runs moving into technical terrain, and I realized that my technical skills were a limiter, so I started climbing again.
2. How did your experience with the Canadian national teams help prepare you?
I was fortunate to be able to live and train with some of the best triathletes, such as Simon Whitfield, who won the first Olympic gold medal in triathlon. I learned how to train and be a professional athlete and got to travel around the world. I also learned how to set a goal and work back from it and how to be curious about my body and push myself – it’s a different sort of inward-looking adventure.
3. What’s one of your favourite races?
In Canada, I like the Kneeknacker North Shore Trail run, a 50-kilometre race across the north shore mountains in Vancouver. It’s a natural and logical line. It’s so cool to be able to look at the mountains from the city and trace your finger across the skyline and know that they have a race there. There’s a lot of history at that race; all the top Canadian mountain runners over the decades have run it.
4. What do you find most difficult about transition to steep rock?
I’ve had to learn how to put my ego aside. Being a runner, I struggle with resting properly and taking my time. I find this difficult with bouldering and sport climbing. I’m not used to taking so much rest between burns. I have horrible flexibility from my years of running, my lack of strength and flexibility means I have a lot of room for improvement.
5. What happened after your accident?
Fortunately, Nick and Dakota were perfect partners and conditions were ideal for a rescue, so the incredible Parks Search and Rescue team were able to get me out of there. I broke my T8-T11 vertebrae, shattered my hip bone and ankle and had deep lacerations across my body. I’m lucky to have survived and to be back moving with a fairly high level of efficiency. My helmet and the fact that I was carrying a rope that we were going to use to rappel a few sections likely changed the outcome dramatically.
6. What’s your recovery been like?
I was fortunate to be rescued as quickly as I was. I have an amazing support network around me. I underwent a lot of physio and a few subsequent surgeries. I am back climbing, running and skiing at a level comparable to where I was prior to my accident. I had a few difficult emotional conversations on the way with my wife, family, partners and friends and luckily, I have mentors such as Jon Walsh, Will Gadd, Sarah Hueniken, Marty Shaffer and Ian Welsted, who have helped me improve my technical skills and better understand how to move safely and efficiently in the mountains.
7. What did you take away from it?
Will Gadd helped me analyze my accident, which I found incredibly empowering and useful. We were moving quickly, through no fault of my partners, I was rushing and not attentive. I was letting my ego get the better of me against my better judgement and I was pulling back on blocks, which you don’t want to do when you’re scrambling. I moved quickly into technical terrain, and, I didn’t respect the skill development, both technical and physical, required to move in alpine terrain.
8. Will you be attempting more technical ridge runs in the future?
I have already gone back into technical terrain, and, I am enjoying the process of learning how to be a better alpine and rock climber. The line in Rogers Pass is a beautiful line and I would love to go back there and move through the terrain in a slightly slower way with a group of friends. I tried to go back this fall, but an early snowfall made the route a bit too dangerous to attempt, so we backed down.
9. Name a climber whose style you look up to.
As an Arc’teryx athlete, I have been fortunate to meet a number of amazing climbers on the roster. I respect Jon Siegrist’s methodical approach to sport climbing and I have been incredibly lucky to have spent a number of day’s climbing, or skiing, with Jon Walsh and Raphael Slawinski. The fact that they have maintained a youthful stoke for hard alpine climbing for as long as they have is admirable. Of course, Kilian Jornet is a big influence on the mountain running scene. I have been able to race and train with him a few times over the years and his vision, world-class talent, intelligence and humility are truly inspiring.
10. Advice for young runners pushing it on exposed terrain?
I would strongly advise that you learn how to climb with a rope before you start moving on technical terrain. Go out and take a course and learn how to move safely. Climbing in a gym won’t cut it, you have to go outside. If you’re going to be going out in the mountains in winter, take an avalanche skills training course. Knowing and being able to identify avalanche terrain and hazards is a critical skill. For young climbers, I would advocate trying a bit of cross-country running or a trail race. Your ability to move through natural terrain is an amazing skill set that transfers well to running. Plus, being able to run approaches can cut down on how long you have to spend out there.—gripped