The Gym

An Interview with Selena Wong, Route Setter at Blocs in Edmonton, Alberta’s Biggest Bouldering Gym

Blocs, Edmonton

In September, Edmonton climbers gathered for the opening of Alberta’s largest bouldering-only gym called Blocs. The 12,500-square-foot location in south Edmonton, 8761 51 Ave. NW, features a custom climbing wall which was created by Walltopia in Bulgaria and installed by a team from Canada and Europe. The wall was so heavy that it made a hole in the parking lot when it was unloaded.

The modern bouldering facility will feature more than 200 problems, which was perfect for the 200 climbers who turned out early to see the new space. The gym offers $18 day passes, $85 monthly prepaid memberships, $ 60 monthly recurring memberships, and $ 610 annual memberships. Canadian climber Selena Wong is the gym’s head route-setter who will be in charge of refreshing the routes.

Wong has been climbing for more than 15 years and first started climbing at Vertically Inclined in Edmonton. We touched base with Wong shortly before the new gym opened.

Is gym climbing training for outdoors, or is it an end in itself?

I think gym climbing is whatever you want it to be. I love that people come to the climbing gym not only to train for outdoors or competitions, but to stay fit, to learn and improve, or just to socialize with their friends. One of the things I enjoy most about commercial route-setting is interacting with all the members and helping them with their various goals. There are so many different ways to challenge yourself to provide climbers with the opportunity to train, move, and learn something new.

Are you more of a boulderer or a route climber?

Boulderer. Definitely a boulderer.

How did you get into setting?

When I started climbing, my friends and I would set boulder problems with existing holds on the wall. I also used to tag along with my husband, Terry Paholek, to help set and forerun at local competitions. I used to compete as well, but more and more, I found myself on the setting side. After Rock Jungle opened, Dan Archambault, the owner, asked if I was interested in heading up the setting there, and the rest is history.

Could you set great routes right away or did it take time?

It definitely took time and I’m still learning. When I first started setting, I couldn’t put a complete problem on the wall. I would have a great idea, spend forever putting up a few holds to create it, and then wouldn’t know how to start or finish the problem. Hopefully, I’ve gotten a bit better since then. I’m always trying to improve, and that’s what makes route-setting so rewarding. You get to watch climbers interact with your boulder problems, and whether they have fun, get frustrated, break a sequence or find alternate beta, there’s always more to learn.

What’s your favourite holds to set with?

Lately, I’ve really enjoyed setting with all the new duotex holds and volumes. I think they provide a great way to create opportunities for cool movements.

What comps have you set for in the past?

I’ve set for a lot of comps over the years. This past year, I set at the Pan American Youth Climbing Championships, Canadian Open Boulder Nationals, and Alberta Open Boulder Provincials.

How has comp-setting changed?

Comp setting has changed so much over the years. It’s definitely become more professional and organized. More resources are being put into the setting team and people are starting to recognize their value. The style of setting has also changed. The introduction of larger and larger holds and volumes has encouraged more full-body coordination-based movements, rather than straight up squeezing and pulling.

What makes a great comp-setter?

Aside from being able to set a variety of styles at the appropriate difficulty levels, I think a huge thing to remember is that comp-setting is a team effort. Everyone on the team brings a different set of skills, and the ability to adapt and be open to giving and receiving feedback is key. You’ve also got to be willing to work long days, think like a competitor, laugh at yourself, and climb things over and over and over and over.

How did the idea for Blocs get started?

Terry and I played with the idea of opening our own gym over the years, but it took Kris to get the ball rolling. She approached us last year with the idea and it just snowballed from there. We’ll have a high rotation of new problems, and there will be something for the absolute beginners all the way through to elite climbers.

Any advice to future setters out there?

Don’t be afraid of failing. Be open to feedback and criticism, because there’s always an opportunity to learn. Build up your climbing movement base. Climb and set in styles that you’re not comfortable with, watch how other climbers solve problems and think about how and why. Remember who you’re setting for, and don’t forget to have fun.—gripped