Rockies Ice Tips

Conditions can vary significantly from east to west across the range – eastern regions are generally drier, except following upslope storms which deposit more snow on the eastern slopes.

Areas to the east of the National Parks offer additional options for climbs free from avalanche hazards, and a drier climate – check the guidebook.

Avalanche bulletins cover large regions and describe the general conditions. Local variation is common and climbers must remain vigilant in their analysis of the immediate conditions while climbing.

Temperature inversions, rain and sun exposure can rapidly change conditions and trigger avalanches – snow loses strength as its warms.

Predicting the stability of free-hanging ice is dubious. A rule of thumb is that large temperature changes within a short time frame will stress the ice and cause collapse.

Climbing below other parties can be dangerous – consider your exposure to falling ice.

Alpine waterfall routes (e.g. Slipstream, Gimme Shelter) present additional hazards of crevasses, cornices and seracs, and may only be considered reasonable objectives during very short windows.

“Fixation” on specific routes can lead to trouble – be openminded, well researched with options, and willing to retreat to try again another day.

Please respect other park users in popular locations such as Johnston and Maligne Canyons. Keep the snow surface clean and pack out all litter.