Gripped

ROCKIES TRILOGY Moderates

You don’t have to climb 5.14 to climb Castle Mountain, Mount Louis and Yamnuska. Try one of the more moderate routes to the summits.

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CASTLE MOUNTAIN ´Eisenhower Tower III 5.5

The final section of War Hammer is the fun 5.5 rock route up the southeast face of Eisenhower Tower that goes at 5.5. You skip the lower tiers of the mountain by scrambling up ledges to the Dragon’s Back and onto the upper rock. The climbing is loose in spots, but the position and history is unforgetta­ble. It was first climbed nearly a century ago.

MOUNT LOUIS The Kain Route III 5.7

The first route up Mount Louis was climbed in 1916 and follows big ledges, cracks and chimneys to the summit. You get an amazing view of The Shining and top out where the two routes join. The route-finding is tricky and you have to make at least eight tricky rappels, but this should be on every climber’s list for summer alpine.

YAMNUSKA Red Shirt III 5.9

It’s one of the best old routes on the mountain, which follows steep chimneys, slabs and exposed traverses up a steep line to the left of Blue Jeans Direct. If there are climbers working the 5.14 pitches, you’ll have an excellent view from the belay ledges on Red Shirt. There have been protection bolts added to the run-out crux pitches, which make it much safer and more enjoyable than last year.

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