Gripped

Bugaboo Spires

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The Bugaboo spires are found in Bugaboo Provincial Park, one of the greatest alpine playground­s in North America. It’s often called the Chamonix of Canada, just without the gondolas. There are tall granite spires of all shapes and sizes surrounded by glaciers and mountains high above the surroundin­g mountain ranges. Every thing you’ve heard about the area is true, from the splitter cracks, mellow snow walking, dangerous cols, sudden lightning storms and amazing camping.

Routes range from two pitches to 40 and include scrambles, 5.5s and 5.14 test-pieces. There are new routes and areas climbed every year. This is one of the only popular rock-climbing places in Canada where an ice axe and crampons are mandatory to be safe especially, later in the season when the glaciers are hard to negotiate due to melting. It’s recommende­d that you have some glacier travel skills for getting to and from most climbs unless you’re staying near the campground.

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