Spiral Galaxy

An Ontario Classic Multi-pitch

Ontario has some of the best climbing in eastern Canada and much of that can be found along the north shore of Lake Superior. The rolling hills of the Nor’ Westers mountains have many steep rock faces that provide in-your-face and casual climbing. Close to the city of Thunder Bay, along the shores of Brule Bay, are a number of buttresses that rise from the boreal forest. The rock is basalt, but more specifically, it’s diabase and it provides climbers with edges and cracks to climb.

Up the final buttress along a one-lane dirt road next to Brule Bay is a stunning two-pitch 5.8 that was first climbed back in the 1981 by Shaun Parent and Scott Kress. Spiral Galaxy is steep, stout and full of fun moves, and is one of the most classic routes in the area. The views across the lake to Pie Island and Sleeping Giant are stunning and

the descent is one rappel. The route is one of many in the Chiller Pillar area.

The anchor at the end of the first pitch was recently bolted, which caused some controversy because of the many cracks for gear. However, after some local discussion, it was agreed that the bolts were a good addition to the route. The first pitch has some committing moves before you can get any protection, but the holds are solid. Pulling the arête onto the east-facing rock is a thrill. The wide crack at the start of the second pitch is challenging, but after a few moves you’ll be in a locker finger crack with good feet.

Spiral Galaxy will be featured in Northern Stone, 50 of Canada’s Best Rocks Climbs by David Smart and Brandon Pullan (Rocky Mountain Books, Spring 2019).—Gripped

Above: Brandon Pullan heading up the first pitch

Top right: Gaby James moving onto the belay ledge with the tricky mantle to come

Right: James finding good finger-locks on the second pitch

Bottom: Looking up the second half of the first pitch to the belay ledge after turning the corner