Route Info

Approach: From Brule Bay Road, follow the dirt road for three kilometres and park in a pull-out on the right. Head up past trees and big talus to the base of the wall and then south for a small bay below the start of the route on the right.

Pitch one: Follow the crack on the left for a few moves before moving right through varying crack sizes that lead to big holds on the arête. Make exposed moves right to slabby cracks and laybacks. Then jam your left fingers in the ledge crack and mantle. (5.8, 17 metres)

Pitch two: Place a high piece of pro and take on the crux. There are some locker moves and sneaky feet, but if you miss them, then this will feel like 5.10. After the crux, move right and up cracks until an obvious move left to more cracks. Pass hollow flakes (haven’t come out in 38 years) and move left and up to the anchor. (5.8, 17 metres)

Descent: Rappel off the chains down Beam Me Up Scotty in 30 metres.