Cover Photo: Screams from the Balcony

Screams from the Balcony is within sight of Castle Mountain high up on Saddle Mountain near Lake Louise. The east-facing crag, Saddleback, has long been a destination for climbers looking for multi-pitch quartzite. This is one of the sweetest prows in all of Canada. It’s featured in Northern Stone, a book about the best rock routes to climb in Canada. It was onsight freesoloed by Marc-Andre Leclerc in 2016 and featured on the 2018 Canadian Alpine Journal.

Pitches: Five

Protection: Mixed trad and bolts Exposure: Builds until final overhanging pitch

Rock: Bog quartzite Aspect: East Grade: 5.11

First Ascent: Mike Verway and Andrew Langsford in 2001 Highlight: Steep crux bolted third pitch

Approach: From Lake Louise, hike to Fairview col and trail east to face

What to bring: Multi-pitch pack, two 60 m ropes, a rack to three inches, 10 quickdraws and five alpine runners, layers for any weather, food and water, helmet