5.9 Five Pitches
FIRST ASCENT: Conrad Janzen and Mark Klassen in September 2018
GEAR: 10 quickdraws and five alpine draws, a 70-metre rope.
APPROACH: Before reaching Sea of Dreams, head down and left to the lowest section of the wall. Go up a gully for 15 m to the steep arete and a two-bolt anchor.
PITCH ONE: Up arête to ledges then right to an anchor (5.7, 9 bolts, 25 m).
PITCH TWO: Up the face to the right (5.7, 7 bolts, 25 m).
PITCH THREE: Up the face to a roof then a slab Sea of Dreams (5.9, 13 bolts, 33 m).
PITCH FOUR: Pass a roof to the upper slab (5.9, 10 bolts, 25 m).
PITCH FIVE: Up the face on the right (5.7, 10 bolts, 37 m).
The route name comes from legendary guide Conrad Kain’s letters when he’d signed them “Conrad Kain, Letters from a Wandering Mountain Guide” between 1906 and 1933.