Editorial

Dark Horses, Whippers and Access

All across Canada this year, climbers will be sending new climbs and old classics. I’ve been lucky to witness a number of important Canadian ascents, from new 5.15s to the opening of grade VI alpine walls. Most of the time, the sends are recorded and entered into an alpine journal, magazine or, at the very least, documented on social media. But for some strong Canadians, the send stops at the chains and few will ever hear about it. Every climbing area has at least one dark horse, the local climber who cleans up projects and repeats the hardest lines.

I was lucky to see a dark horse in action while in Skaha this spring. Willis Brown, a farmer in B.C.’s interior, was inching his way up Guy Edwards’s High Country on Tottering Pillar. At 5.12a, the trad line has only been attempted by a few climbers and the upper wall is now lichen covered. From across the Grand Canyon, I watched Brown clip his pre-placed gear from the base of the Belfry. He jammed through the steep roof and pulled onto the upper wall with ease. He later said that he’d have to return for a proper redpoint, placing the gear on lead. Doug Orr, long-time Skaha route developer, was on hand and said he’d never seen anyone on the test-piece. Brown didn’t hype the send and you won’t see it on social media or in a journal; he just continued on with his climbing day.

Along with hard sends, I’ve also seen countless big whippers. Some are clean falls and some end with injuries. If you’re going

to be taking big whips, be sure that you know what you’re doing. Practice at a crag with a gradual overhang, so you’re not at risk of hitting a ledge. One of the worst mistakes you can make when falling is having the rope behind your leg. Always make sure that the rope is in front of you and let other climbers know if you see them making the common error. And it goes without saying that you should always wear a helmet, especially if you think you’ll be taking falls. If you’re new to climbing outdoors, then hire a guide or instructor to show you the ropes.

As we head into another busy rock climbing season in Canada, it’s important to remember that our access is a privilege, not a right. To maintain access to our crags, we must follow the local rules. Take time to check online for crag closures, parking lot restrictions and camping areas. Be nice at the crag, don’t leave fruit peels on the ground, don’t smoke near others, keep your dog on a leash, don’t leave a toprope on a climb if others are waiting and please be quiet. Climbing crags are not gyms, so keep the noise down.

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Gripped bringing you news, stories and images from Canada and around the world. It’s going to be a great summer, so climb safe and have fun.