Quebec Rock Adventure
Climbing the Classic Bing Bang 5.11b, 400 m
Top local climber Stephane Lapierre described it as one of the most beautiful multi-pitch routes in Quebec, so I rounded up some partners to check it out. The wall is located by a big hydroelectric dam called Bersimiss II, which was built by Hydro-Québec. After a short ferry delay, we got there around midday. Once we arrived, we realized the road was closed three kilometres before the trailhead because the river was flooded by the dam. We ended up crossing the river by walking on parts of the power station.
On the other side of the river, three kilometres of bushwhacking was required, which took nearly three hours. The wall is an impressive 400 metres of granite right over the dam. The rock is sometimes pink, sometimes white, black or orange. There are three main routes to the summit: a 10-pitch 5.9/10 trad, a 10-pitch 5.11a/b slab and another long moderate. We choose the 10-pitch 5.11a/b slab, which is called Bing Bang.
The route starts with a 5.9 offwidth followed by a 5.10+ bolted slab. We then simul-climbed to reach the bottom of a stunning slab. Next, we climbed four pitches of pure friction climbing with micro-edges at 5.11. There aren’t many rests, so it feels really
spicy because you get wicked leg cramps. There are a few tricky mantels on shallow slopers. The bolts are spaced far apart, which feels especially scary on such a remote route. After the slab pitches, you head up the steep upper wall. We put the headlamps on and finished the day with some long rappels.
There were a number of great-looking unclimbed features on the upper wall, including a steep white dihedral. Quebec has many long, remote routes that get few repeats. Bing Bang is similar to long, techy slab routes in Squamish, but with far fewer people around. It’s a great summer adventure.
Story by Kevin Duquette