Northern Faces
Leading Quebec Climber is Pushing Technical Limits
Emilie Pellerin started climbing when she was 18, and over the past 11 years she’s built one of the most impressive climbing resumes of any strong Canadian. Originally from Repentigny, Que., she became the sixth Canadian woman to send 5.14 in 2016 with her tick of Tom et je Ris in France. We touched base with Pellerin before she visited Squamish for the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy in August.
What was your first day of climbing like?
I was a totally different person back then with blue hair and I played guitar in a metal band. One day, my buddy Matt decided to take me to Val-David and I’m ashamed to admit it, but I had no clue
what climbing was all about. On the way, we stopped by mec to buy a locking biner, a daisy chain and slings and when we got to the crag, Matt rigged a to-prope and lent me his oversized harness and shoes. I climbed a 5.9 and that’s when I fell in love with rock climbing. I remember the feeling of freedom with the wind blowing in my face, my hands holding onto the tiniest crystals, my mind was focused on only one thing: making the next move and getting to the top.
Where is your favourite place to climb?
I would have to say Indian Creek, Catalunya (Lleida area), Arapiles, Verdon Gorge and Red River Gorge.
You’ve sent hard trad and sport, what do you like the most?
I like both, but I’d say trad climbing a bit more because it isn’t only about your physical abilities, it’s also a mind game. You can go through a lot of emotions on one route. You can start and feel bold and then get scared and then kinda bored and then excited and then pumped as hell and then scream with fear and end by feeling invincible.
Last year, you on-sighted the Shadow 5.13 in Squamish. How did you feel before the climb and after?
As we started going up University Wall, I saw the slightly overhanging dihedral and I told myself, “I have to get up this pitch.” I was intimidated at first, but who wouldn’t
be? We had a limited amount of small gear, but I always try my absolute hardest for the onsight. I started steaming up the corner and slowly but surely, I got up one move at a time. I was only thinking about my next move. Once I got through a strenuous section, I felt quite secure and confident. To get to the chains, you have to make a big move out left to what might be a bad slopper or a huge jug. I didn’t know on the onsight. A very nice Japanese couple was cheering for me up by the anchor. I had been on the route for a long time and my calves were burning, I hesitated on the very last move. I realized the only way to do it was to give it all and do a dynamic move hoping for a jug but expecting a sloper. I went for it and stuck it.
You’re recovering from an operation. What happened and how’s recovery going?
I had a bad fall in a competition back in 2017 and didn’t know it at the time but I ruptured two ligaments in my foot. I took two weeks off and then kept on training and competing. A year of physio went by and the pain was still there. Getting operated was a tough decision because the pain was bearable most of the time. I went through surgery mid-December 2018 and left for Europe a few weeks after I started walking again. Julien (my partner) has been very patient, he carried all the heavy gear and put the ropes up. Recovery is going well. I’ve past the half-year, but I keep my hiking to under two hours a day.
What have been some of your favourite over the past few years?
A redpoint of Tom et Je Ris 5.14a in France, an onsight of Siempre se puede hacer menos 5.13d in Spain, a redpoint of Poumon d’acier, 5.13d at the Sanatorium, a redpoint of Fire in the Sky, 5.13c (mixed) at the Adirondacks, a redpoing ot Punky Brewster 5.13c (mixed) at Arapiles, a redpoint of the 250 -metre La Cavale 5.13b trad on Cap trinité with Gasper Pintar, a send of 24-hour Crack 5.13a trad at Acadia National Park and an onsight of the 400-metre The Shadow to Roman Chimneys 5.13a.
You flashed Hulkosaure this year, what was that climb like?
Hulkosaure is a 20-metre-long overhanging mono tufa route that you can’t pinch because it’s too wide. You start up a popular 5.12 with two bouldery sections to get to the first anchors. Then from the chains you take a right-hand crimp, a smaller left hold, get your feet up and dyno to a one pad incut crimp. After that you get up and grab the tufa and full on compression from there. You got to climb just like a Koala with feet facing each other, knees, elbows, pinching and laybacking. The climb was originally 5.14, but downgraded. The style suits me well and I think it felt a bit easier than other 5.13ds.
Will you do any comps this year?
I’m not planning to compete this season, I’d rather travel. I liked my experiences on the circuit, but I’m more of an outdoor climber.
If you could project any route when it’s in condition, what would it be?
I would likely try La Zébrée, the famous 5.14a roof crack in Val David.—Gripped