Gripped

Gym Shoes for Fall and Winter

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Having the right shoe for indoor climbing can make a huge difference between a successful training session and a regrettabl­e one. If you’re on the ropes all day, then you want a shoe that can breathe well and is comfortabl­e for hours on end. If you’re bouldering, then look for a breathable aggressive shoe and bring some flip-flips to change into between sessions. Scarpa Vapor V $185

The updated Vapor V has a slightly stiffer midsole, giving you more support for those micro-edges you can find on vertical roped walls. The tensioning system pulls power to the back of the foot to provide more power, which is key for hard problems. These are a great option for the climber heading to the gym for both wall and boulder sessions.

La Sportiva Skwama $190

The Skwama is many climbers favourite highperfor­mance shoe. Whether you need to smear to get power on steep moves or stand on small holds on less-than-vertical climbs, they have you covered. The S-Heel helps with those tricky heel hooks and the sticky toe patch helps for toeing-in. They don’t stretch as much as many shoes, so keep that in mind.

Unparallel Up Mocc $150

The Up Mocc is another top all-rounder that is at home on hard problems as it is on technical vertical climbs. The tensioned heel and slipper fit give the shoe a unique feel that allows you to optimized nearly every foot position. They feel similar to the Moccasyms, but are slightly narrower and tighter heel cup. They will stretch a bit more than other shoes. For rock season, they transfer well to thin cracks.

Evolv Oracle $175

The new-for-2018 Oracle is a high-performanc­e downturned lace-up designed for steep hard routes in the gym. Despite having an aggressive last, the shoe conforms quickly to your feet, allowing you to edge of vertical rock and overhangin­g plastic. The speed lacing system helps snug up the high-tension heel rand to crank your foot into place. The high forefoot toe-hooking zone helps with scumming and toe hooks. We recommend the Oracle to climbers seeking a high-end shoe that can perform on the hardest of projects.

Black Diamond Zone Low Volume $170

The Zone combines the performanc­e of the Black Diamond Shadows combined with the breathabil­ity of the Momentum to create the ultimate gym climbing shoes. The last is on the aggressive side, which helps with pulling yourself in on steep moves. The Fuze rubber is forged and not cut from one sheet of rubber, which gives it a comfortabl­e and consistent feel. Recommende­d for climbers hoping to push their grades indoors this year.

Boreal Dharma $180

One of the best high-end shoes from Boreal in the past few years. The Dharma offers a supportive design that offers crazy edging power. The unique rand creates an aggressive shape that allows your toes to dig deep without feeling any pain. While they feel spacious (which makes them great for people with wide feet), the three-Velcro closure snugs them close to your foot. A fantastic all-round shoe for climbers looking to send indoors.

Tenaya Tarifa $175

The Tarifa was designed in conjunctio­n with the Oasi, but is built for vertical walls that demand precise foot placements. It feels much stiffer, which helps keep the energy in the forefoot and over the toes. It also has a slightly aggressive toe-box, which will come in hand on those route overhangs. The last is narrow and the laces are effective and simple to tighten. This was Alex Megos’s go-to shoe for many of his 5.15 sends.

MEC Edge $90

The Edge is one of MEC’s first climbing shoes and is designed for those heading to the gym to run laps, but not focus on sending the projects. As one of the most comfortabl­e shoes on this list, the Edge offers all-day support with a solid midsole and an edge that will give you enough bite on some small holds. Recommende­d for new climbers, climbers getting back into climbing or those wanting an all-day climbing shoe.—Gripped

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