New Quebec M10

Jean Francois Girard and Carl Darveau made the first ascent of Trans-balkan Express, a 110-metre M10 mixed route in February. The route is on Mont-gol, across from Mont de l’ours in Parc National des Grands-jardins north of Baie-saint-paul in Quebec. Carveau headed up with a drill and made his way through the four-metre roof. The first pitch is M10 30 metres on bolts, the second is a 30-metre M4 on gear and the last (a chimney/off-width that required a six-inch cam) is a 50-metre M7. “It’s the most beautiful pitch of this nature I have ever climbed,” said Francois Girard.