10 Questions
Mixed Pro Gord Mcarthur
Gord Mcarthur has been climbing for 20 years and currently owns a climbing gym in Cranbrook, B.C. Over the past decade, he’s been one of North America’s leading ice climbing competition climbers on the world tour. “Life is crazy with my kids and my business, but I’m lucky I get to share it all with my amazing wife,” Mcarthur said. “There’s never a dull moment and always a new adventure on the horizon.”
We touched base with Mcarthur shortly before what would have been the start to the 2021 uiaa Ice World Cup Tour, which he was meant to be part of.
1
How has COVID-19 affected B.C.’S climbing gyms (including your own)?
Covid-19 has had a negative effect on the gym industry as a whole. Whether it is on people getting outside or the new restrictions on climbing gyms, the experience is just different. It’s a scary time as a gym owner, but there are so many unknowns. All we can do, as an industry, is continue to support each other and do our best.
2
What stage of the world tour were you most looking forward to this year?
This year, I was really looking forward to Saas Fee, Switzerland. It was to be the world championships and the venue there is amazing. With comps being cancelled this year, I’ll stay focused on events in 2021.
3
In 2012, we published a list of your favourite mixed climbs: Musashi, Real Big Drip, Nightmare on Wolf Street, Mixed Master, Cryophobia, Rocket Man, French Reality, El Matador, Cave Man and Slaughterhouse. Has anyone ever tried to repeat them all?
That article was a collective effort by some of the most accomplished climbers in Canada. Between Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski, Barry Blanchard, Rob Owens and my own personal favourites, it’s a super cool tick list. To my knowledge, the only person I know that went after that list, in a season, was John Freeman, and I think he did them all except for Musashi. And he was so close to Musashi. It was awesome to witness some of his sends.
4
Of the routes you list, which is your favourite?
With such an array of styles, it’s hard to choose my favourite route in that list, but I’d choose Musashi for its steepness, El Matador because of its esthetics and Cryophobia for the shear awesomeness from start to finish.
5
You established the world’s first D16 with Storm Giant in B.C. Have many climbers attempted it since?
The route had some controversy attached to it, which made it difficult for others to attempt. There were some Europeans and locals who tried it, but it’s never been repeated.
6
What’s the best training for mixed comps?
To get out and do the sport. Depending on what level you’re shooting for, time on the tools is your best bet. Beyond that, a solid core and upper body regimen will certainly improve your ability to pull on tools longer. Will Gadd came up with a great idea, with the “plice” to work on technique and some endurance in a controlled environment. Get some cardio in for those long approaches.
7
How has the climbing scene changed in southeastern B.C. over the past 10 years?
Climbing has been booming in the past few years. Route development has become more popular which has opened some new areas. Specific to winter climbing, there’s been more young rock climbers crossing over to the mountains, which has increased popularity for specific styles of tool climbing. In southeastern B.C., the climbing scene has boomed with the Olympic movement. Gyms are popping up and more climbers are moving west.
8
As a climbing coach, what should new climbers focus on during their first year of climbing?
My advice to any new climber is to spend as much time on the wall as you can. Don’t rush into it is what I stress the most. Learn technique, build muscles and once things seem to be firing then start to break down the mechanics of improving finger strength and overall endurance.
9
You’re a sponsored climber.
How has COVID-19 changed the industry?
I love seeing everyone rally together to improve the outcome. I’ve been honoured and inspired by the brands I work with. They use their resources and put them toward such important things. They took action and focused on the importance of helping when and where they could/can. I think covid-19 has made everyone aware that we need to stick together and support our local and global climbing communities.
10
Who are a few young mixed climbers to look out for in the next few years?
It’s always great to see the rise of a new generation. Specifically, it’s been awesome to see the growth out of the sport out of Boulder, Colo. There’s a drytooling-specific gym that opened called Ice Coop, and some of the young talent coming out of there will push the sport. I think we’re about to see another boom in mixed and drytool climbing, indoor and out.—gripped