10 Questions
Midori Buechli: Ontario Crusher and Oncologist
Midori Buechli is a strong Ontario climber based near some of the best rock climbing south of Toronto. With over 10 years of climbing experience, she’s put her skills to work at Niagara Glen at the start of this year and completed a handful of classic lines up to V9. We touched base with her in April.
How long ago did you start climbing, and what was your first memorable outdoor send?
I started climbing in 2010 at the Laurentian University bouldering club. It was a tiny, sweaty room with the greasiest holds, and all the problems were traverses, since the room was only about 8–9 feet high. Having never really been exposed to climbing before that, it was magical and I was hooked. My first memorable outdoor send was during a trip to Horse Pens 40 in Alabama. I was there with nine dudes, and I was the only woman. I definitely felt like I had something to prove. We were working on a V6 called Redneck, an overhanging somewhat crimpy climb, totally atypical for HP40, land of desperation slopers. It took some real try-hard, but I got the send. It was my first outdoor V6 and proof to myself that I could climb as hard as the guys.
Do you prefer bouldering or sport, and how come?
I’m a boulderer to the depths of my soul! I love the try-hard, the athleticism and the sense of camaraderie in bouldering. Certainly, you can find those things in sport climbing as well, but the individual moves that I could pull on a route will never be as hard as what I can do on a boulder, and in terms of camaraderie, I feel much more alone when I’m on the end of a rope, whereas in bouldering, my spotter(s) are right there with me. It’s a lot easier to share beta. Plus, I don’t have to worry about clipping bolts or taking scary whippers in bouldering.
What’s the Toronto climbing scene like?
The indoor climbing scene is huge in Toronto, not right now of course with gyms being closed due to covid-19. During regular times, I’m really fortunate to have Toprock Climbing as my home gym because it provides a great sense of community, which can be lacking when you live and climb in a city as big as Toronto. Because gyms are closed, it seems that a lot of people who would normally climb indoors have been going outside more and crags are becoming busier.
What are some changes you’d like to see in the climbing industry?
I think this is something that is slowly changing, but certainly more representation, not only of racial minorities but also lgbtq, people with disabilities, people with different body types, etc. It’s so important for people to see themselves represented, whether it’s in the media or in the sport that they love. I also think it would be great if there were more support and involvement in local initiatives, like crag maintenance, climbing festivals, gym-to-crag education and mentorship programs.
How has your job as an RN in hematology/oncology changed during COVID?
Fortunately, there haven’t been many covid-19 cases in my unit, but our patient population is severely immunocompromised, so they are at a high risk. It has been really important to wear proper ppe and get vaccinated to help keep them safe. One of the most difficult things to handle is the visitor restrictions, particularly during end-of-life care. Telling someone that they are not permitted to see their family member before they pass is just heart-wrenching.
Dealing with the emotional toll and the short-staffing, makes me feel so grateful to have an outlet like climbing to help me recharge.
Have you had a steady at-home training routine?
What’s it been?
With on and off lockdowns in Toronto since March 2020, it has been impossible to get consistent access to a climbing gym, and like many others, I started training at home. I was having a hard time staying motivated, so I sought out a coach for the first time. Dr. Dillon Elliot of Bouldering Breakdown has been instrumental in helping me build strength and power with limited resources. It involves a lot of one-arm dead-hangs, one-arm lock-offs, power pull-ups, front lever training, etc.
What’s the best piece of climbing gear that you own?
I love my Flashed Hueco Pad. The dimensions are larger than those of a regular pad, so the fall zone is bigger and it comes with a thin pad that is handy for covering seams or protecting side rocks. The best part is the custom artwork; I have a Hueco landscape printed on my pads which was designed by my talented friend Michelle Ang. It reminds me of my favourite place every time I go bouldering.
Have you taken any bad falls?
I’ve never really taken any bad bouldering falls. I’m actually pretty scared of heights. When I was projecting Dark Age, a 25-foot highball in Hueco Tanks, I wouldn’t work on it unless there was a double layer of pads and multiple spotters. Even so, I was still downclimbing for multiple sessions before I actually committed to the top-out.
Who are some climbers that you look up to, and will you watch climbing in the Olympics?
I have a ton of respect for Alex Puccio and Isabelle Faus. They are really pushing the boundaries for women in bouldering. For sure I will be watching climbing in the Olympics but I don’t really follow competition climbing very closely. It’s a totally different beast from outdoor climbing, but definitely entertaining.
What’s been your favourite V1, V5, V7, V9?
And any goals for 2021?
V1: Detached Flake, Squamish; V5: Duel dans la lune, Fontainebleau; V7: Water Paintings, Joe’s Valley or Choir Boys Lite, Hueco Tanks; V9: Slave to the Grind, Bishop (an earthquake occurred while I was sending, so it was extra memorable). If the travel restrictions are lifted, I would love to go to Squamish this summer and take down the proj that I had to leave undone in 2019, Black Hole (V10). Otherwise, I will be working on some local projects. I recently started trying Young Thugs at the Niagara Glen. If I can manage to squeeze out a send, it would be my first V12.—gripped