Northern Faces
Alannah Yip on the Olympics
Alannah Yip is one of Canada’s two climbers qualified to compete at the Tokyo Olympics this summer. The B.c.-based engineer talks about early competitions, quitting climbing and her road to success as one of the world’s most elite. At the time of print, the Games are scheduled to take place from July 23 to Aug. 8.
Yip has a number of sponsors, including Arc’teryx, the Vancouver-based company that makes high-end technical gear. Arc’teryx has entered into a multi-year agreement with Climbing Escalade Canada (cec) to support competition climbing at a national level. This partnership is designed to champion the development and growth of competitive climbing in Canada over the next four years. “Arc’teryx is very proud to embark on this partnership with cec,” says Jurgen Watts, director of brand experience at Arc’teryx. “Our origins in climbing are at the heart of the brand. We’re honoured to be able to support the next generation of Canadian climbers at such a historic time for the sport.” Christiane Marceau, executive director of cec, said, “cec is honoured to partner with Arc’teryx. This strategic partnership will bring awareness and opportunities to both of our organizations and to the Canadian climbing community.”
Why did you stop climbing during university?
I wanted to put 100 per cent of my time and effort into getting my engineering degree. Mech 2 (second year mechanical engineering at the University of British Columbia) is a notoriously difficult and time-consuming program. Being an engineer had been a lifelong dream for me so I didn’t want to only put partial effort into my education.
What motivated you to start climbing again?
I got back into climbing the summer after my second year of engineering and before I went to Switzerland on exchange. By the time I left for Switzerland in the new year I had been in contact with the coach of the Zurich regional team who I then got to train with. My teammates there became really good friends. Their motivation to train and climb on rock was contagious, and I haven’t lost motivation since then.
How important was the 2016 Paris World Championships?
It was my first senior World Championships. It was gratifying to be able to make the semi final round and even feel like I had improved on certain skills (slab climbing) over the course of the year. I competed in all three disciplines (combined wasn’t a discipline yet) but did pretty terribly in speed and lead. I knew if I really did want a chance to qualify for the Tokyo Olympics (which was announced just days before Paris started) I would need to work hard on those two disciplines.
After failing twice to make the Olympics, why did you transition to outdoors?
Outdoor climbing has always been a big part of my life and it contributes immensely to my mental health and well being. I just don’t talk about it much as it’s very personal to me. This past summer and fall for example I have climbed outside at least once a week if not more.
What was it like sending Pulse?
It was really exciting to send Pulse. I had done Division Bell three weeks prior and had spent about five days before working on Pulse (they have the same second half). It took me three days to get the beta fully dialled and on the fourth and fifth day I fell at the redpoint crux many times. The day I sent I was so nervous that I forgot my harness and had to borrow Anna Lee’s (Sean Mccoll’s mom).
You made up five spots at the Panam Championships in L.A. to make the Olympics. What was that day like?
I was extremely nervous and stressed on the first and second days of competition at Panams, which led to me not climbing at my best. On the day of finals, however, I was very calm – probably calmer than I’ve ever been at a big competition. Speed didn’t go very well for me, but I stayed positive and was only looking ahead to my stronger disciplines. In bouldering and lead I was very focused, so much so that when I fell on my lead route and lowered to the ground, I was still thinking about the move I fell on until Becca Frangos ran over to tell me I had qualified. After that I was overwhelmed with relief and happiness.
What was your reaction to the postponement of the Olympics?
I was really proud to be a part of Team Canada when a few days before the postponement of the Games they announced that they would not send any Canadian athletes to a summer 2020 Olympics. Health and safety of the global community are definitely the most important things, far more important than sport. Mostly I was happy to be given the time and space to be able to stop training for a little while and stay home when the pandemic was beginning and the virus wasn’t as well understood. I have always felt quite positive about the postponement of the Games because I see it as entire year that I had to get stronger and smarter.
What’s your training cycle like?
My training cycle will change every year depending on what I need to focus and improve on and how much time I have. This past year, for example, I haven’t had to peak at all, so it has looked a little different than it has in previous years. Combining training for all three disciplines has been an interesting challenge in the past few years and is something I still feel we’re trying to nail. Usually, I’m working in four-to-six-week blocks with one primary focus discipline (three to five sessions per week), one secondary discipline (two/ three sessions per week) and the third discipline (one session per week). On top of that I do both strength and conditioning work and finger strength work year-round.
How important is your coach to your successes?
Andrew Wilson, my climbing coach and Clay Cross, my strength and conditioning coach, are hugely important to my success. I work with both of them at least once a week. They know where I am strong, where I can improve, and when and how best to push me. They are both experts in their respective fields, and I trust them both fully, which is really important in a coach athlete relationship. Without them I certainly would not be where I am today.
Advice for younger climbers hoping to rise to the national level?
Train hard, don’t forget why you love to climb and stay humble. Personally, I don’t think it’s healthy to drop all other sports and only climb, especially at a young age. Diversifying helps build general athletic skills and keeps balance in your life. Focusing on only one thing can put too much pressure on an athlete and can skew their sense of self and self-worth.—gripped