Area Profile
Bugaboos Select
For North American trad climbers, the Bugaboos need no introduction. The granite zone is nestled in the Purcell Mountains of British Columbia and is known for its immaculate rock and ease of access. There are climbs for all ability levels there, from the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire – widely known as the world’s best 5.4 – to one of Canada’s hardest alpine rock climbs, the Tom Egan Memorial Route 5.14. Below is a compilation of some of the best routes the Bugaboos have to offer. While it is by no means comprehensive, ticking this list will give you a great indication of the area’s potential and what new adventures may await.
III 5.10 150 m, Crescent Spire
For lazy mornings or half-day weather windows, look no further than Paddle Flake Direct (pfd). The approach via the Crescent Glacier is less than one hour from camp, and the route is fairly short by Bugaboo standards. What pfd lacks in length, however, it more than makes up for in its varied and sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The route is easy to find – just look for the massive paddle hanging a few pitches above your head. Climb a mix of splitter cracks and face holds to a ledge below the paddle and squirm your way into the tight squeeze chimney. Alternatively, options exist to the right of the flake to avoid the claustrophobia. Above this is a fantastic, gently overhanging corner providing solid jams up golden granite to easier ground above. After topping out, walk east up the ridge to the Mcttech Arete area and look for a chain anchor on the south face. A single rope is all that is needed to rappel – and is much less likely to become stuck behind the rope-eating flakes on the descent.