NORTHEAST RIDGE
IV 5.8 450 m, Bugaboo Spire
The Northeast Ridge is one of many entry-level routes in the area and is deservedly popular. Due to its inclusion in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, expect to share belays with many parties during spells of good weather. Begin by following a trail to the right of several glacial tarns above Applebee Campground toward the east face of Bugaboo Spire. At its col shared with Crescent Spire, head up a slabby weakness while passing bolted rappel stations. Begin just left of the ridge proper in a small alcove and fire the crux of the day: a 5.8 bulge navigated with a mix of finger jams and laybacking. Higher up, a spectacular 5.7 dyke traverse will prove the route’s popularity to you. The Northeast Ridge is infamous for benighting climbers who are lulled into complacency by the moderate grade. But the ascent may well be the easiest part of the day. After roughly 12 pitches of mid-fifth class, climbers have a convoluted traverse ahead of them from the north to south summit and a long downclimb along much of the Kain Route. Picking up a copy of the Atkinson and Piché guidebook will save you a lot of trouble.