SNOWPATCH ROUTE
IV 5.8 450 m, Snowpatch Spire
Also known as Weissner’s Route, this line is another moderate classic that is sure to deliver a long and adventurous day in the mountains. Approach via the Bugaboo Glacier heading toward a weakness between Snowpatch Spire and the Son of Snowpatch cliff. Choose wisely from a myriad of splitter options to gain a fun handrail traverse that cuts below a steep black bulge. After four long pitches, or a block of simul-climbing, climb friction slabs to the left of the namesake snowpatch – it’s a great time to refill your water bottles. This route clocks in at roughly 19 guidebook pitches with the crux moves arriving high on the face. Many off-route variations exist here, and with no bolted stations on the entire route this would be a difficult place to retreat from. Above the crux, two low-fifth class pitches lead you to a fun scramble to the summit. Descend via the west side of the mountain using the Kraus-mccarthy bolted stations. Some parties will prefer double ropes due to the wandering nature of the climb, however, only one 70-metre rope is required to rappel the west face.