Gripped

WEST RIDGE

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III 5.4 450 m, Pigeon Spire

The best 5.4 on the planet. The West Ridge is an excellent excuse to take a reconnaiss­ance lap of the area or be a standalone objective for burgeoning mountainee­rs. It has a straightfo­rward approach across the Vowell Glacier – fun climbing on solid granite and a spectacula­r, 360-degree vantage of every major summit in the area. The climb is characteri­zed by exposed ridgetop walking and short sections of low-fifth-class scrambling. Many climbers will opt for approach shoes on route as they are much more friendly on the toes while walking down the sloping slabs and more than sufficient for climbing the brief crux moves. The route can be descended by retracing your line of ascent or using two bolted rappel stations off of the summit. It’s hard to pinpoint what gives the West Ridge such flattering accolades: the climbing is engaging and secure, it is easy to bail if the weather turns and there is even a toilet at the base.

Anthony Walsh is hoping to make a number of

trips to the Bugaboos in summer 2021.

 ??  ?? Opposite top:
The Howser Towers: The Beckey/chouinard follows the obvious buttress centre frame
Left: Coming up the massive corner system high on All Along the Watchtower
Right: Approachin­g Pigeon Spire.
The West Ridge is the right skyline
Opposite top: The Howser Towers: The Beckey/chouinard follows the obvious buttress centre frame Left: Coming up the massive corner system high on All Along the Watchtower Right: Approachin­g Pigeon Spire. The West Ridge is the right skyline

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