WEST RIDGE
III 5.4 450 m, Pigeon Spire
The best 5.4 on the planet. The West Ridge is an excellent excuse to take a reconnaissance lap of the area or be a standalone objective for burgeoning mountaineers. It has a straightforward approach across the Vowell Glacier – fun climbing on solid granite and a spectacular, 360-degree vantage of every major summit in the area. The climb is characterized by exposed ridgetop walking and short sections of low-fifth-class scrambling. Many climbers will opt for approach shoes on route as they are much more friendly on the toes while walking down the sloping slabs and more than sufficient for climbing the brief crux moves. The route can be descended by retracing your line of ascent or using two bolted rappel stations off of the summit. It’s hard to pinpoint what gives the West Ridge such flattering accolades: the climbing is engaging and secure, it is easy to bail if the weather turns and there is even a toilet at the base.
Anthony Walsh is hoping to make a number of
trips to the Bugaboos in summer 2021.