This week’s suggestions: carignan blends
We are starting to see some better quality aligoté at the SAQ. I drank a great version from Goisot (SAQ # 10520835, $20.05) recently, but there is very little left in the system. If you can find one, try it. As far as pure carignan is concerned, we are still waiting for some of the Chilean versions, as well as some of the more avant-garde producers in France to have their 100-per-cent carignan wines available at the SAQ. So for the time being, here are some carignan blends from the Languedoc-roussillon. Finishes quite mineral. Very textbook aligoté and quite good. Serve at 8 C. Drink now. Food pairing: apéritif, white fish with a squirt of lemon. Bourgogne Aligoté 2009, Domaine Henri Naudin Ferrand, France white, $17.30, SAQ # 11589703. Exceptionally good. For those of you who admire freshness, verve, minerality and pure drinkability, this is very much worth a try. Chardonnay light perhaps, but beautifully simple. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2013. Food pairing: apéritif, cheese fondue, shrimp stirfries with ginger. Côtes du Roussillon 2009, Tradition, Ferrer-ribière, France red, $16.75, SAQ # 11096271. Much like the Roussillon as a whole, this combines the best of two worlds – French elegance and Spanish moxy. Old-vine grenache and carignan, a touch of syrah and a whole load of sun combine in a ripe fruited, very animal and earthy wine. Serve at 18 C. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: braised meats, especially beef. Corbières 2009, Cuvée Classique, Château Ollieux Romanis, France red, $18.20, SAQ # 10507163. Very good when I popped the cork, even better the next day. A more elegant and refined Corbières. The fruit is softer, redder, with the accent on thyme and rosemary and razor-thin tannins. One of those multi-purpose wines that satisfy for a great price. Carafe one hour before serving. Serve at 16 C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing: roast white meats with herbs. Corbières 2007, Cuvée Simone Descamps, Château de Lastours, France red, $19.05, SAQ # 11367473. From one of the authorities on the carignan grape, here it is blended with syrah and grenache. Beautifully balanced wine that offers up a pretty and seductive floral bouquet, but with some good power and torque. The tannins seem to just perfectly frame the fruit. Carafe 1-2 hours before serving. Serve at 18 C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing: roast beef with horseradish. Minervois 2009, Les Fontanilles, Domaine A. Gros et J.-P. Tollot, France red, $28.70, SAQ # 11509558. From a region that normally produces one of the biggest wines in the Languedoc, a wine of depth and finesse. Made by two Burgundy winemakers, this is downright pretty – has that silky texture of grenache with the florals of syrah and that meaty, earthiness from carignan. Tannin still need to soften a touch, but this is already very satisfying. Serve at 18 C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing: grilled filet mignon with herbs.