CAPITAL IDEAS
OTTAWA will have a lot to offer visitors this spring and summer, including a van Gogh exhibition at the National Gallery, several music festivals and, of course, its famous tulips
Back in the day, it was not unknown for battles to be fought, crusades waged and heads lost in establishing capital cities. Then again, some capitals have been founded for much more simple and practical reasons: Buenos Aires means good air and was so named to establish that it was free of the stench that pervaded the city it replaced, which was situated next to swampland.
Ottawa, from the Algonquin word Adawe, which means “to trade” appears to fall somewhere between the dramatic and the practical. Not named the capital for its convenience, an appeasement or as a result of hostilities, it was chosen over its rivals by Queen Victoria in 1857 for its strategic location at the confluence of major waterways and its distance from the cannons and muskets of the United States.
So what makes a great capital, anyway? Is it necessary to have suffered centuries of turmoil to make a destination worthy of Nikon wielding Japanese tourists?
Arriving in Canada from London, I had no preconceived ideas of what Ottawa offered the tourist, apart from a Lonely Planet travel blog that described it as “somewhat dull.”
Unfair? … I think so, and cite 12 years of living in the city as evidence. Sure, it may not have the chic of Montreal or the panache of Toronto (actually, panache may be pushing it) but then again, it does have that “capital” factor.
And that means museums (29 of them!), art galleries, parks, world class entertainment and streets named after famous people. Remember Paul Anka?
Ottawa benefits from an easily accessible downtown core with the city of Gatineau just across one of the many bridges that span the Ottawa River. So, consider some of the following dozen events and attractions that make it worthwhile to brave even the Décarie on a Friday afternoon to get there.
Canadian Tulip Festival: Bulbs and more blooming bulbs – over a million of them! This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Canadian Tulip Festival which kickstarts the spring and summer festival season in Ottawa. It is a hugely popular event, attracting thousands of tourists and even more bulb hungry groundhogs. The festival runs from May 4 to 21. tulipfestival.ca/
The National Gallery of Canada will soon be offering the first major Canadian exhibition of Vincent van Gogh’s work in more than two decades. Van Gogh: Up Close is billed as a unique look at the artist’s use of close-up view, depths of field and focus, and will contain about 50 paintings that have rarely been viewed publicly. The exhibition opens May 25 and runs until Sept. 3. gallery.ca/en/see/exhibitions/ upcoming/details/van-gogh-upclose-70
RBC Royal Bank Bluesfest: This world-renowned music festival first opened its gates back in 1994 and has since hosted numerous A-list artists on open-air stages in Lebreton Flats Park, adjacent to the Canadian War Museum. Over the years, blues may have given way somewhat to a more eclectic mix of artists including Sting, Bob Dylan, Kiss, The Black Eyed Peas and Van Morrison, so don’t let the name mislead you. This year’s lineup includes Norah Jones, John Mellencamp, David Gray, Iron Maiden, Blue Rodeo and Nickelback. The festival attracts more than 300,000 music fans and gets bigger every year. The festival runs from July 4 to July 15. ottawabluesfest.ca/
TD Ottawa Jazz Festival: A prelude to its big brother in Montreal, the TD Ottawa Jazz Festival has, in its more than 30-year history, attracted many of the jazz greats, including Herbie Hancock, Dave Brubeck and Diana Krall. This year the festival will be held in Confed- eration Park, right in the heart of downtown Ottawa and the lineup will include Steve Martin, Robert Cray Band, Grammy-award winner Esperanza Spalding, Dave Holland and Kevin Eubanks. The festival runs from June 21 to July 1. ottawajazzfestival.com/
Rideau Canal: A UNESCO world heritage site (recognized in the field of Human Creative Genius no less) and the oldest, continually operated canal in North America, the Rideau Canal has connected Ottawa to Kingston since 1832. You can ply the waters on pleasure boat tours, visit the Rideau Falls or the Bytown Museum ( named after Lieutenant Colonel John By, who oversaw the construction of the canal) or simply watch very expensive boats inch their way through the narrow lock system. ottawatourism.ca/en/visitors/top-attractions/rideau-canal
Ottawa International Chamber Music Festival (Chamberfest): This is the world’s largest chamber music festival, with more than 100 performances by more than 250 artists from around the world. It’s held in various acoustically unique venues across the city. The festival runs from July 26 to Aug. 10. ottawachamberfest .com/upcoming- features/ottawa- chamberfest-2012
Festival franco-ontarien: Since 1975, this showcase for Frenchspeaking musicians from Ontario and Quebec has attracted francophones and francophiles f rom across the country. The festival begins June 14. The closing act on June 16 will be Congolese star Mohombi. ffo.ca/accueil.php The Diefenbunker: A National Historic Site located in the town of Carp, a short drive west of Ottawa, Canada’s cold war museum is a must-see for any history buff. Over 100,000 square feet and four stories high (all underground), this oncesecret bunker was originally built to protect the government from a nuclear attack. Within the bunker, you can visit the prime minister’s suite and the War Cabinet Room. diefenbunker.ca/en_index.shtml Sound and Light Show: Located on Parliament Hill, this is a spectacular (and bilingual) sound and light journey through Canada’s past. Take advantage of this free event, which allows you to sit outside on the lawn on a summer’s evening and watch history unfold on the walls of the Parliament Buildings. The show runs from July 6 to Sept. 3. mosaika-sl.ca/ Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute: If, like me, you thought a reduction involved the use of a surgeon’s knife, then you had better head for Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute. This Paris affiliated school (the only one in Canada or the United States) is home to some of Canada’s top culinary students. You can sample the fare at the attached Signatures restaurant or take short courses in a variety of gastronomic subjects ranging from improving your knife skills to pre- paring petits fours and macaroons. lcbottawa.com/
Casino du Lac-leamy: Located in the city of Gatineau, on the Quebec side of the Ottawa River, the Casino du Lac-leamy offers more than blackjack and slot machines. Every August, it is also the site of a spectacular fireworks display called Casino du Lac-leamy Sound of Light – a pyromusical competition featuring teams from across the world and recognized as one of the top 100 events in North America. This year’s edition runs from Aug. 4 to 18. feux.qc.ca/en/
Changing of the Guard Ceremony: On Parliament Hill, every day from late June to late August, regardless of weather, enjoy all the pomp and ceremony of Buckingham Palace – without the airfare. The ceremony starts at 10 a.m. sharp and you are advised to get there at least 15 minutes early in order to secure a good vantage point. ottawatourism.ca/en/visitors/topattractions/changing-the-guard