Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK

- Bill Zacharkiw

It is rare that a wine’s quality does not reflect its price. However, there are exceptions. The wines of the week are reserved for those wines that show exceptiona­l quality and outstandin­g value.

Insolia grape with a touch of chardonnay

Sicilia Igt 2010, Insolia/chardonnay, Angimbé, Cusumano, Italy white,

$14.45, SAQ # 11097101. White wine with torque – they are rare if the wine hasn’t been aged in oak. But here, no oak, simply that rustic, crab apple and nuttied spice that comes from the indigenous insolia grape, with a touch of chardonnay to smooth out the edges. For you low acid fans, but not heavy in the least. Serve at 6C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: fish and chips with tartar sauce.

Fresh taste of Australia

Shiraz 2009, Mudgee, Robert Oatley, Australia red, $19.50, SAQ #

11368898. Has the soft tannins, explosive fruits and oak driven spice that you would expect from an Aussie shiraz. Difference here is that the grapes are grown in the higher altitude vineyards of the Mudgee region, which brings with it a superb freshness, and a touch redder fruit quality. Very good and will please a wide variety of palates, even my crusty Eurocentri­c one. Serve at 18C. Drink now2015. Food pairing idea: grilled lamb chops, tamari marinated filet mignon brochettes.

Complex, ‘dangerous’ and unique

Valpolicel­la Classico Superiore 2007, Zyme, Italy red, $32.75, SAQ

#11587151 (Cellier release). Such beautiful fruit. Alluring and finessed with an elegance that I haven’t tasted in awhile. Such complexity – fig, dates, cherry, sun dried tomatoes, a touch of olive. I tasted this sitting next to Le Devoir’s Jean Aubry and he said of it “It’s dangerous.” Agreed, it’s sexy as hell. This properly shouldn’t even be called a Valpolicel­la, as it shares little in common with 99.9 per cent of the wines of the rest of the appellatio­n. I ran out and bought three. Serve at 16-18 C. Drink now-2020. Food pairing idea: pork roast with dark fruit compote, on its own.

 ??  ?? $20 AND UP:
FOR A TREAT
$20 AND UP: FOR A TREAT
 ??  ?? $16-$20:
MID-PRICED MARVEL
$16-$20: MID-PRICED MARVEL
 ??  ?? UNDER $16:
EVERYDAY DRINKING
UNDER $16: EVERYDAY DRINKING

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