Paying homage to the flavours of Greece
A series dedicated to anything that fits on a piece of bread. We deconstruct a sandwich each week and tell you where to find it and what goes into making it.
Melina’s Greek sandwich, $5.95 at Phyllo Bar Melina’s in Mile End
Named for legendary Athenian actress Melina Mercouri, this postage-stamp shop recently opened amidst the psarotavernas and souvlaki purveyors of Park Ave. It specializes in traditional Greek pastries made of phyllo dough, like tyropita and spanakopita. There is also one house sandwich on offer here, and it pays fine homage to the flavours of Greece. The Melina’s was created by happy accident, according to lively owner Joanne Chery, who herself is part Greek, part Haitian. One night shortly after opening, she and her business partner found themselves hungry and surrounded by ingredients for the restaurant. “We didn’t want to eat any more phyllo,” she recalls, raising an eyebrow, “so we threw together what we had in the fridge. As soon as we tasted it, we knew we had to put it on the menu.” The bread: Chery tried versions with a few different breads, and settled on the tried and true crusty baguette (A). “From good old Pain Doré,” she says. The spread: Two kinds of Greek cheese (B) go into the fold. One is kafteri, made in house by blending feta, roasted red peppers and hot pep- pers. The other is Graviera, a specialty of Crete, which readily melts onto the bread with heating. Like kefalotiri, it is used to make flaming saganaki when doused with ouzo and set afire. Tomato and cucumber are slipped in, along with a layer of homemade hummus (C). “Hummus isn’t very Greek, so we Greek-ified it by adding ol- ive oil, olives and oregano,” Chery notes. The sandwich is skewered with a kalamata olive and pepperoncini (D), and served in a basket on blue and white checked paper that echoes the shop’s decor – and the Aegean seaside. The effect is crusty and creamy, yet refreshingly light – a satisfying summerwich. The secret: Watch out, it’s hot when it comes out of the oven. And it’s a three-napkin affair, so be sure to grab extras if you’re getting it to go.
Phyllo Bar Melina’s, 5733 Park Ave., 514-270-1675, www.phyllobarmelinas.com Sandwich suggestions? restoagogo@gmail.com