A guide to ‘regularly listed’ wines
THOUGH MOST ARE large production, you don’t have to ‘drink bland’ when skipping the specialty section
I catch some flak on occasion from frustrated readers who tell me that my “wines of the week” are usually sold out by the time they get to their local SAQ. Before submitting my selections, I make sure that there is at least a case in most stores. The problem here is that most of the wines I suggest are not “regularly listed” wines.
The SAQ has a couple of product classifications for wine, but the most important distinction is between a “regular” and a “specialty” listing. Specialty wines make up the bulk of my “wines of the week.” These are wines that are imported into the province once or twice a year, and are not distributed in all stores. So once they are gone — they are gone. At least until the next order comes in.
Are they better? To their credit, the SAQ has put some serious effort into this category over the last two years. Smaller producers, better producers and new regions. So yes, I think they are better. Problem is that many of these orders run between 200-400 cases for the entire province.
The SAQ has taken a “supermarket philosophy” when it comes to the “regular” listings, which can be found in the majority of SAQ stores. The cost to wineries to get their wine listed can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. These wineries also need to guarantee enough stock to cover the province year round.
The result is that only largescale wineries can really afford to play the game. The wines, more often than not, are large production wines that are more about maintaining a constant flavour profile than revealing a sense of place and vintage. Most aren’t bad, but neither are they very inspiring.
So does this mean that you are relegated to “drinking bland” if you shop in the regular section? Nope. There are a number of good wines there. As we are heading into the prime wine drinking season, here’s a guide to some of my fave wines from the “regular” listings. I decided to have a little fun with the categories: “I don’t know what they are making for dinner, but I feel like bringing a white.” Fumé blanc 2011, Sonoma, Château St. Jean, California white, $19.95, SAQ # 897199. A touch of semillon and viognier adds some aromatic lift but, even more so, gives the wine a softer texture. Still very sauvignon blanc — ripe citrus, melon, lemon grass — but with enough weight to handle richer dishes. Serve at 6-8C. Drink now-2013. Food pairing idea: apéritif, salad with prosciutto and pecorino cheese, fish and seafood. “I don’t know what they are making for dinner, but I feel like bringing a red.” Dâo 2009, Duque de Viseu, Portugal red, $14.95, SAQ # 546309. A model for under $15. Ripe fruit, solid tannin, but easy on the oak and with a freshness that belies its power. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing idea: veal stew. “My guests bring dépanneur wine when they come for dinner. I need good and inexpensive.” Malbec 2011, Mendoza, Finca Flichman, Argentina red, $8.95, SAQ #
10669832. Simple and easy drinking, What it might lack in power and tannin, it more than makes up for with bright fruit and a silky texture. A touch of herbs, a hint of licorice and spice add some depth. Keep it cool. Serve at 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, pizza with sun-dried tomatoes. “Honey, you were supposed to buy the bubbles.” Cava, Brut, Reserva, Segura Vuidas, Spain mousseux, $14.30, SAQ # 158493. Incredibly refined for the price. Consistently the best under $15 sparkler on the market. Apples, florals, minerality, delicate bubbles and great length. Drink now. Serve at 8C. Food pairing idea: apéritif, oysters. “I don’t mind spending $20 — my kingdom for a specialty store.” Chianti Classico 2009, San Felice, Italy red, $19.95, SAQ # 245241. Sangiovese with colorino and pugnitello. Chianti that hearkens back to traditionally styled wines from the region. A touch of plum and raspberry, but grounded in leather and tobacco.
Serve at 16-18C. Drink now-2016. Food pairing idea: osso bucco, veal parmesan. “I don’t mind spending $30 — my kingdom for a specialty store.” Barolo 2007, Fontanafredda, Italy red, $32, SAQ # 20214. Ripe fruit, but with grippy tannin and a refreshing acidity. Mineral with an earthy, more animal expression on the finish. Beautiful wine that is drinking nicely right now but will hold for a few more years. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing idea: leg of lamb. “She said to bring a white for an aperitif.” Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne 2011, Pyrene, Lionel Osmin, France white, $12.15, SAQ # 112535564. Blend of sauvignon blanc, colombard and gros manseng. Full-on acid and aromatics. Driving citrus fruit with a hint of more tropical fruits. Slight bitter note makes you even thirstier. Serve at 6C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, vegetable stir-fries with lots of fresh coriander, ceviche. “These people know their wine. I need something that will be interesting.” Côtes du Rhône 2011, Guigal, France
white, $17.55, SAQ # 290296. Classic southern white, the attack is fresh, mid palate is slightly honeyed and the finish is all spice and richness. Don’t serve this too cold — please. Serve at 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: chicken or pork with cream and herb sauce. “I need a red wine for vegetarian food.” Douro 2010, Vila Regia, Sogrape, Portugal red, $10.15, SAQ # 464388. Almost a strawberry and red cherry hybrid, bursting from the bottle. Just clean, fresh and nicely un-made up. One of those wines that you can plow back by yourself, or with anything that doesn’t require a wine that is too tannic. Serve at 16C. Drink
now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, vegetarian friendly. “I prefer to drink organic.” Coteaux Varois en Provence 2011, Château La Lieue, France red, $12.70, SAQ # 605287. The floral side of Provence. Strawberry and other fresh field berries and a wonderfully peppery finish. Tannins have some bite, but that doesn’t take away from the juicy freshness. Serve at 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: white meats, especially in tomato sauce with herbs. “I like big red wine, but want something new.” Shiraz/ Sangiovese 2011, No. 3 Chronicle Butcher’s Gold, Hardy’s, Australia red, $16.95, SAQ # 11676364. Weird mix but works. Hint of mint and leather on top of the standard black fruit. Sangiovese seems to add some more structure as well. Nicely restrained but still full-on Aussie. Serve at 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: braised meats. “The SAQ dude always suggests Ménage à Trois or Apothic whenever I ask for a California red — I like Californian wines, but these wines are sweet and gross.” Cabernet-Sauvignon 2009, Paso Robles, Liberty School, California red, $19.95, SAQ # 856567. This is pure cassis and blackberry, but with an extra floral component to add some complexity — violet and lavender. The tannins are still gritty. You can tell they were holding this back, that they didn’t want it over ripe. Oak is there, but also held in check. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2017. Food pairing idea: grilled T-bone. I’m running out of space, so here are a few more reds. Rapsani 2009, Tsantali, $11.25, Greece red, $11.25, SAQ #590836. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing idea: chicken with tomatoes and olives. Cahors 2009, Chatons du Cèdre, Le Cèdre Diffusion, France red, $12.80, SAQ # 560722. Serve at 16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, asparagus quiche with goat cheese. Dâo 2008, Catedral, Reserva, Caves Velhas, Portugal red, $12.95, SAQ # 739680. Serve at 18C. Drink now2014. Food pairing idea: beef stew, not too spicy. Corbières 2011, La Garnotte, Jean-Noel Bousquet, France red, $13.05, SAQ # 11374411. Serve at 15-16C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Grilled sausages, Toulouse in particular. And a few whites: Vigneti delle Dolomiti Igt 2011, Intaglio, La-Vis, Italy white, $16.95, SAQ # 11766562. Serve at 6-8C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: apéritif, seafood pasta or pizza in cream sauce. Riesling 2011, Hügel, France white, $18.05, SAQ # 42101. Serve at 6-8C. Drink now-2016. Food pairing idea: apéritif, Thai curry with seafood and coconut milk. Chablis 2011, Les Champs Royaux, Domaine William Fèvre, France white, $20.85, SAQ # 276436. Serve at 8C. Drink now-2014. Food pairing idea: apéritif, richer seafood, lobster.