Pinot noir reveals more with each sip

Côtes du Jura 2011, Pinot noir, Domaine Labet, France red, $26.05,

SAQ # 11833868. Pinot noir is known for being silky and suave. But the best pinot noirs are those that show some excellent structure underneath the apparent ease. The acidity and tannin together act like a tightly wound ball of string. And as it slowly unravels, the complexity becomes more apparent. Each sip gives you more and more. This one does it, and for under $30. Bravo. Serve at 16 C. Drink now2016. Food pairing idea: grilled salmon.