Antarctica’s no holiday – it’s a full-on adventure
Trip to the Falklands and South Georgia offers a breathtaking voyage
Some people like to take a vacation — others prefer to go on an adventure. If the later is your preference, you can escape to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica for a voyage of discovery that is often an exhilarating and hang-on-for-your-dear-life experience, but one you will never forget.
The awesome sense of peacefulness, of emptiness, of something still untouched by mankind, is pervasive here. This seventh continent, where there is no permanent community, has a magical allure. Antarctica may be the windiest and driest place on Earth, but it has a profound appeal.
The trip is anything but calm during the crossing of the Drake Passage, however the journey is worth every lurching moment. Bouncing on the side of a rubber zodiac while being whisked to some of the most isolated outposts of the human race can be jarring to say the least, but this is an easier entry to an elite club of adventurers and explorers than climbing Everest.
Our first port of call is West Point Island (part of the Falkland Islands) where after a trek across the island we encounter a virtual orgy of black-browed albatross and rock-hopper penguins nesting together on the side of a cliff. It is a surreal first wildlife experience to be so up close and personal to these massive birds and comical penguins.
What we hadn’t realized was that this was only the beginning of many incredible wildlife experiences. Considered by some to be the most aweinspiring island on the planet, South Georgia is a land mass 200 by 40 kilometres with more bird populations than nearly all other bits of land anchored in the world’s oceans.
I will never forget my first step onto this island. We could smell the penguins before landing on the beach in the zodiac. I cannot describe the experience of being on a beach with literally hundreds of thousands of King penguins. The adults completely ignore your presence and the yearlings want to get up close and personal. You truly feel as though you are one with nature.
Other stops on South Georgia had us picking our way among a variety of penguins, and fur and elephant seals, as they strutted their stuff in front of glaciers, surf and mountainous peaks.
This icy wilderness of Antarctica is enchanting.
Glaciers come down to meet the sea and there are immense ice cliffs that are like pristine rock faces. Antarctica’s frozen formations take on an infinite variety of shapes and sizes and the landscape is mesmerizing and beautiful. Penguins and seals are abundant, but this is also the bread bowl of the whale world. Watching humpback whales feed within metres of the side of the ship was an amazing thrill. Kayaking in silence among massive sun-kissed icebergs leaves you in complete awe of the majesty of this part of the world.
We were 18 days on board our ship, the Akademik Ioffe, which carried a total of 170, including the hardy crew. The Ioffe does not resemble a cruise ship but is very comfortable, and the small size creates a sense of camaraderie among its guests. Casual attire is the norm and there is no need to “dress” for dinner. It is very soothing to be rocked to sleep, however a good night’s rest does depend on securing anything that might roll around in the night.
There are many ways to reach Antarctica, however the advantage of travelling with only 100 passengers is the opportunity for frequent zodiac excursions and lots of oneon-one time with the resident experts on birding, photography, wildlife and history of the area.
Having now ventured to the last great wilderness on Earth, there is a sense of succeeding in going to the “end of the world” and back, a land where few others have set foot. The cost of the trip with One Ocean Expeditions, a B.C. company, is approximately $13,000 for 19 days from Ushuaia (southernmost city in Argentina) to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica return, plus airfare. It is cheaper to just go to Antarctica, however as this is a once-in-alifetime trip it’s worth spending the extra to go to South Georgia. It also adds to the experience to be in the company of people who are doing research in this part of the world.