Adventure in the Mexican jungle
The mysterious Mayan civilization flourished on Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula between 300 and 900 AD. Abandoned in dense jungle and forgotten for centuries, their rediscovered stone cities reveal extraordinary architecture, artwork and technology.
Our concierge suggests Ruinas del Rey. “Not so dramatic as others,” he grins, “but biggest on Isla Cancun! A sculptured human face decorating the regalia of Mayan rulers, as well as embellished skeletons found there, suggest it was once a royal burial ground.”
We pedal resort bicycles nine kilometres to this local archeological area, despite a blistering morning sun.
Though set amid sparkling modern developments, this small gem from 600 AD proves surprisingly tranquil. From greenery edging the grounds, soothing bird choruses sweetly greet us. Fat iguana families occupy the scattered remnants of 47 time-worn structures. As we watch, these docile residents bask along limestone steps, skitter under weathered walls and even pose with haughty royal attitudes!
Unlike at prominent locations, these ruins are not roped off. Easily climbing the low-rise pyramid, we walk within stone foundations and stroll unhurriedly throughout the ancient grounds. Storyboards interpret the platforms, helping us visualize customs long past.
Most striking, a small palace stands alongside one of two plazas forming the ceremonial centre. Topped with a vault thought to be an astronomy lookout, faded wall paintings inside depict ordinary daily life.
Joining fellow history buffs another day, we head off the tourist track to Ek Balam, an influential city for 1,000 years.
Once there, a well-worn sacbe leads us to an arched gateway. Our guide, Daniel, pauses: “Imagine! More than 1,300 years ago, miles of such white limestone roadways ran throughout the jungles, vital links to distant communities.”
Through a narrow passage inside low walls, we sight immense structures restored from rubble. Countless doorways lead into chambers where we suspect elite residents found cool relief from the burning sun. Slab stellae under thatched shelters outline dynastic history, telling us the buildings here were constructed around 800 AD during Ukil-Kan-Lek-Tok’s reign.
Though each site visited brings us renewed understanding of the Mayan civilization, it’s our encounters with Ruinas del Rey and Ek Balam that add the special magic to our Mexican getaway.