Lesser-known delights in the world of grapes
And Vermentino wines deserve to be tried — for our education and their conservation
In my continuing effort to promote wines made with lesser-known grapes and from regions that are either not in vogue or relatively unknown, here are red and white grape varieties that deserve your attention. Remember that it is up to us as consumers to help protect the rich fabric that is diversity of grape varieties. And how do we do that? By buying and trying. Nero d’Avola
When Sicily burst onto the scene a few years back, the grape that led the charge was nero d’Avola. The wines were inexpensive, darkly coloured, full-bodied reds that seemed to fit perfectly with Québécois thirst for this style of wine.
Nero d’Avola is a dark-skinned grape, indigenous to Sicily. While its parentage is unknown, the name means “black grape of Avola,” a village on the southeastern part of the island. But nero is grown across Sicily and represents almost 20 per cent of the total vineyard area.
Traditionally, it is best known for being a single varietal wine or blended with another indigenous Sicilian original, the super aromatic and high acid grape, frappato. This blend is the recipe for Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG, which is Italy’s most prestigious appellation classification.
Nero d’Avola is an interesting grape. It thrives in the hot Mediterranean climate where summer temperatures can reach well over 35C. By “thriving,” I mean that it can tolerate these high temperatures while maintaining a reasonable acidity and doesn’t become overly alcoholic. It can get very ripe, but the fruit never seems “stewed” like so many other red grapes.
The result is a wine that can be compared in many ways to syrah, especially with respect to flavours and aromatics. For me, classic nero d’Avola aromas range from very ripe raspberry, strawberry to black plum. The finish, like many a syrah, can be very peppery.
Where the comparison ends is the quality of the tannin. Syrah, or shiraz, can have very silky, almost fat tannins, especially when the grapes are very ripe. So in many ways it is a softer wine than nero d’Avola. But this is what I like about nero. Even under $20, the wines can show tannins that have a touch of grit. So, while less elegant than syrah, I like that rusticity, especially when looking for an inexpensive wine to pair with red meat.
Today there are more than 40 nero d’Avolas at the SAQ, the vast majority of which are still under $20 a bottle.
One trend I have noticed of late is that we are seeing more and more nero d’Avola blends with international grapes like syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. The result, more often than not, is a wine that perhaps lacks a touch of that Sicilian “roughness,” but is more accessible to those of you who like silkier-textured, more fruit-driven wines. Vermentino
While most people think of vermentino as Italian, as its name suggests, my personal relationship with the grape started with French wines. The problem was that I didn’t know I was drinking vermentino because I knew the grape under two different synonyms — rolle and malvoisie. Rolle is its name in Provence, while malvoisie is how it is known in Corsica. I finally made the connection a few years later when I was tasting a few Italian vermentinos and noticed that they reminded me of those French wines.
But no matter what you call it, I love the grape. Despite that, it is grown in relatively warm climates — it is able to maintain its acidity and thus freshness. Yet at the same time, it always has a tendency to show, especially as it warms, a natural richness and body. Call it the best of both worlds. So for you lovers of chardonnay, especially leaner and less-oaked versions of the grape, this might be an interesting alternative.
The aromatics are unique as well. While it is considered an aromatic grape, it is not obvious. I often find white flowers, softer fruits like pear and peach, citrus, as well as almond, honey and, at times, a touch of pepper. I have tasted certain wines that have had an interesting herbal edge as well, with notes of thyme and bay leaf. So perhaps the best way to describe the aromatics would be “subtle complexity.”
Despite flying under the radar, vermentino’s time in the spotlight might be relatively soon. It is grow- ing in Italy, where it is already the most planted white variety in Sardinia, but can now be found in Tuscany and Piedmonte. Because it can handle warmer climates, it has spread throughout southern France and is being planted more and more in the Languedoc– Roussillon. I have tasted excellent vermentino in Australia, and most recently at Tablas Creek in California’s central coast.
At the table, because of the subtle aromatics, acidity and body, it is the perfect wine for seafood and fish. It can easily handle such recipes as fried squid, scallops and white fish. The key is not to drink it too cold to allow for the natural richness to show. Wines of the Week — inflation
What? Now $17 is an inexpensive wine? Well, kinda. The under-$13 category is rapidly disappearing, and, during the past two years, I have noticed a marked decrease in the number of quality wines available. More often than not, I find that I am repeating the same wines year after year.
According to some stats compiled by my buddy Marc André Gagnon at VinQuebec.com, there are almost more wines available between $18 and $19 as there are in total under $13. In light of this, so that I can recommend a different selection of wines, I have increased the everyday drinking wine to $17. As the $17-$20 category is where the SAQ seems to be concentrating its purchasing, and there is plenty of choice, $20 will remain the top price for the middle category.