Montreal Gazette

This week’s suggestion­s: memories of summer

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Côtes de Provence 2011, Château la Tour de L’Évêque, France white, $19.65, SAQ #972604. Nuanced, with the bouquet of white summer flowers and dried grass. The mouth is equally as delicate, with notes of perfectly ripe pear with a touch of citrus, that finishes on a smoky mineral note. Allow this to warm slightly to allow the blend of rolle (vermentino) and semillon to show what they can do. Organic. Serve at 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing ideas: shrimp Provençale, white fish with sauce Colli di Luni 2011, Vermentino, Lunae Bosoni, Italy white, $19.70, SAQ #11355907. Easy to drink, but hardly simplistic. Delicate aromatics — pear, white peach, almond and a touch of honey. Just enough acidity to bring a certain freshness, and a peppery mineral note on the finish. Quite elegant. Serve at 8C. Drink now-2014. Food pairing ideas: grilled white fish, seafood pizza Sicilia Igt 2009, Nero d’Avola, Regaleali, Tasca d’Almerita, Italy red, $15.75, SAQ #482604. One of the better examples of inexpensiv­e nero. Dark fruited, spice on the finish, and solid tannins. Rich, powerful and authentic. Keep it cool. Serve at 15C. Drink now-2014. Food pairing idea: Italian sausage Sicilia Igt 2011, La Segreta, Planeta, Italy red, $17.15, SAQ #898296. The best Segreta that I have tasted yet. While undeniably a more modern incarnatio­n of the style, this blend of 50 per cent nero d’Avola, cabernet and merlot is tighter and less creamy than previous vintages. Lot of dark fruit, soft tannin with a slight minty finish. Good introducti­on to the grape. Serve at 15C. Drink now-2014. Food pairing idea: all-dressed pizza Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2009, COS, Italy red, $29.55, SAQ #11577391. Made in amphorae — large terracotta pots— this is one of the more “natural” wines at the SAQ. Red berry fruit, lively acidity yet with great depth. The tannins are there, yet simply give the wine more length. One of those wines that seems to morph with every sip. Give this an hour in carafe before drinking. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2016. Food pairing ideas: white meats with herbs, strong-flavoured fish like mackerel Contessa Entellina 2008, Tancredi, Donnafugat­a, Italy red, $30.25, SAQ #10542129. Always excellent, this is perenniall­y one of the best Sicilian wines on the market. A blend of nero d’Avola and cabernet sauvignon, this is about rich, juicy fruit, perfectly integrated oak, and mouth-enveloping tannins. Like any great wine, it stays fresh. Great length: a model of elegance and depth. Serve at 18C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing idea: rib steak

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