Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEK Bill Zacharkiw

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It is rare that a wine’s quality does not reflect its price. However, there are exceptions. The wines of the week are reserved for those wines that show exceptiona­l quality and outstandin­g value.

UNDER $17:

EVERYDAY DRINKING Carménère gets smoothed out

Carménère 2010, Reserva, Maule, Calina, Chile red, $16.25, SAQ

#10692696. A true wine of the week. Everything about this is right. Great fruit, moderate alcohol at only 13.5 per cent and, overlaying it all, a slight greenish, minty note to add some complexity. Refreshing, powerful, remarkably good for the price. And for a grape that gets trashed by many for being too rustic, remarkably finessed. Not a ton left in the system, but I had to mention how good this is. Serve at 16C. Drink now-2015. Food pairing idea: braised beef with honey/soy marinade

$17-$20: MID-PRICED MARVEL Malbec keeps things under control

Malbec 2011, Mendoza, Triv-ento, Argentina red, $17.25, SAQ

#11769261. While too many Argentine malbecs are covered up with oak and fruity sweetness, this remains nicely restrained. Pretty tightly wound, as the tannins still have lots of pop to them. Cut with syrah and bonarda to add some aromatic lift. Ripe, yes, but not creamy or sticky sweet. Just a big, sturdy wine that wants to eat up a T-bone. Serve at 16C. Drink now2016. Food pairing idea: T-bone with steak spice, medium rare

$20 AND UP: FOR A TREAT Fruit-filled Amarone opens early

Amarone della Valpolicel­la Classico 2008, Tedeschi, Italy red, $41, SAQ

#522763. It’s rare that young Amarones are so open and ready to drink. So much fruit going on here. Corinthian raisins, purple plums and a host of exotic spices. Lots of finesse, too, and will develop some more depth as it ages. Exceptiona­l. Serve at 18C. Drink now2018. Food pairing ideas: dried cheese like Parmesan or cheddar; roast duck

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