In the comfort zone
Will enjoy the accessible fare at Les Enfants Terribles’ new location on Nuns’ Island
Iavoid taking my kids to restaurants at all costs. It’s not that I don’t want to; heaven knows I would love to see them have fun at a restaurant. It’s just that they make a face and start moaning at the slightest suggestion that we might be eating out anywhere besides our usual hamburger hot spots (Nouveau Palais, La Boulette, Anecdote). To them, restaurants are a total drag.
One of them is only willing to go as far as spaghetti carbonara on the adventuresome scale. And the other won’t share or let me even suggest what to order. Seeing as their limits are actually prerequisites for restaurant review dining, I’m all too happy to leave them at home. That said, I still keep a small flame burning in hope that they will someday consider restaurants with the same unbridled enthusiasm, verging on obsession, as their mother.
So when I decided to review the new Nuns’ Island outpost of a branché Outremont restaurant, I insisted they come, not only because the menu was basic enough for them to enjoy, but the name, Les Enfants Terribles, seemed to suit the situation perfectly.
Outremont’s Les Enfants Terribles is easily the most happening restaurant on Bernard Ave., and in the neighbourhood I’m sure only the jumping Laurier Ave. bistro Leméac can compete. The food is steak/frites and fried calamari predictable, but let’s get real here: Comfort food is what 99 per cent of the population is looking for when dining out.
Yet my guess is we are actually more critical when it comes to judging the familiar macaroni and cheese than when it comes to the unfamiliar fluke crudo with yuzu espuma (foam). I’ll cut that crudo a little slack if the espuma lacks fluffiness, but heaven forbid the mac and cheese isn’t better than the Martha Stewart’s Creamy Mac & Cheese I’ve been making since 1991.
That familiarity is what makes Les Enfants Terribles so appealing. And hav- ing dined at the Outremont restaurant a few times, I can understand why it’s so crowded: The food is good, the staff is friendly and the wine markups are reasonable. And let’s not forget their swish outdoor terrasse.
It’s important to note that the Outremont Les Enfants was reviewed in the casual column here, as main-course prices at the time of its open- ing hovered around the $20 mark. They still don’t break into $30 territory, but the dishes range in fanciness enough to make this a specialoccasion restaurant or a you-won’t-catch-me-in-the-kitchen-tonight option. The Nuns’ Island restaurant offers an identical menu, as well as the oh-so-appealing wine option of 600 mL carafes and many wines by the glass.
As for the décor, the Nuns’ Island restaurant is newer, but it has the same emphasis on wood and glass, with schoolroom chairs and a large central bar. As with the Outremont restaurant, the crowd here seems to consist of yuppies, good-looking 40to 50-something men, and a heck of a lot of blond women, especially surrounding the bar. As my Québécois friend pointed out, “Y’a de la drague- ici,” which translates roughly to, “There’s some pickingup going on here.” That said, there are also tables filled with couples, friends, seniors and, at my table, two kids somewhat oblivious to the scene around them.
We jumped right into a selection of four appetizers: for the kids, macaroni and cheese and Caesar salad; and for the grown-ups, cauliflower soup and crab ravioli. Though very cheesy, the mac and cheese was not much else. I like a few croutons atop my m&c, and a gratinéed topping en plus. This one was just a bowl of cheesy macaroni. OK, but certainly not Martha-worthy.
As for the Caesar — wow! The moment the mega-salad hit the table, my 8-year-old’s eyes bugged right out. Made with large slices of romaine, croutons, fried pancetta, Parmesan shards and just the right amount of dressing, the salad was a huge hit. The child polished it off in record time.
Meanwhile, across the table, we were scarfing back the lovely ravioli. The Alaskan king crab was sandwiched together with two thin slices of daikon and mixed with a few herbs, apple batonnets and a honey and nutmeg emulsion. Though it all felt a bit spa-food-like, the flavours were so delicate and the textures so diverse that I relished every bite.
As for the cauliflower soup, think smooth, perfectly seasoned, zuzzed up with bacon and piping hot. Loved every spoonful.
Main courses turned up more highs and just a few lows. My 12-year-old was disappointed with the ribs, and after a few bites, I knew why. The meat was moist, verging on mushy, and the sauce was just smeared over the meat, not cooked into it. The pork flavour was also faint. After a few bites, he tossed in the towel. The hamburger he had contemplated would have been a better bet. Filled with all the fixings, the burger scored primarily because the patty was so tasty and ideally cooked just beyond medium rare. What a great burger! That said, the fries lacked crispness — no match for the fantastic frites I enjoyed at the Outremont resto.
A modern rendition of shepherd’s pie arrived next, presented in a tower shape consisting of braised beef at the base, mashed potatoes on top and a corn sauce poured over it all. Alas, the corn sauce was oddly sweet and the potatoes were too thick. The braised meat was delicious, but there was just too much of it. Though the dish has potential, I think the whole thing needs to be scaled down.
As for the final main, a simple spaghetti with tomato sauce, basil and mozzarella: good, not great. The pasta was perfectly al dente, but the mouth feel wasn’t lush enough. I think a shot of pasta water or cream would have done the mix a world of good, and the chunk of mozzarella placed on top might have been better served in pieces.
The thing about comfort food is that it’s just so filling, so you might prefer to pass on dessert. That’s understandable, and trust me, the too-light chocolate mousse and the soggy lime tart aren’t worth the calories. The pouding chômeur, however, is. Hot, moist, maple heavy and topped with a dash of cream to cut through the sweetness, this dessert should not be missed.
And I think if you live in the area and are looking for a solid — and fun — dinner destination, Les Enfants Terribles should not be missed either. Our waiter was cool and competent, the crowd was equally English and French, and there was a real sense of neighbourhood to this place, with people greeting each other across the room and the hostess greeting many customers by name. If I lived here, I’d return often. And, yes, I’d bring my kids. No, the scene is not ideal for the youngster crowd, but we sat happily at one of the corner tables, noshing away.
On the way out, the 8-yearold summed up the dinner with one sentence: “You better give that restaurant more than two stars.” OK, kiddo, done! criticsnotebook@gmail.com Twitter: LesleyChestrman