2 rival restaurants, former spouses
THEY FAILED AS A COUPLE, BUT ARE SUCCEEDING AS RESTAURATEURS
Restaurant openings in the Burgundy region of France, where a mix of beloved Michelin-star recipients and calcified institutions generally reign, aren’t an everyday event, so the debut of two spots within a few months of each other might be news enough. But it’s their link to the nearly two-decades-old Le Gourmandin — and to each other — that makes their story that much more noteworthy.
Isabelle Crotet Billard, 46, who owns the always-packed spot in the heart of the city of Beaune, hired Alain Billard to be her executive chef when it opened in 1995.
They fell in love, married three years later and famously ran Le Gourmandin together, the chic Crotet Billard managing the crowds while her husband turned out classic cuisine bourguignon.
Their restaurant was a success, but their romance eventually fell apart. They separated four years ago, and Billard, now 60, left to start L’Hôtel du centre in nearby Meursault. Crotet Billard expanded with L’Auberge Bourguignonne.
The one-time couple say that there’s no bitter rivalry between them, and their restaurants have several similarities: Both opened last year, both strive to serve simply prepared local cuisine in a casual ambience and, in an area where rich meat dishes rule, both offer notable seafood options.
On a recent visit to the region, I decided to pay each a visit and found two worthy dining destinations with plenty in common. L’Auberge Bourguignonne
Crotet Billard’s new spot is in a quiet square in a stonefront former coaching inn that dates from 1861. A large outdoor seating area and warm service make up for the decor in the small dining room, which runs toward uninspired (white tablecloths, wood chairs, a beige carpet).
The meal began with a plate of warm cheese puffs, a hint of tastiness to come. Although the regular menu isn’t expansive, a half-dozen or more daily specials add to the selection. Appetizer choices included regional staples, but there were also surprises, including a chunky gazpacho with sweet shrimp and garnished with toasted tomato seeds.
Mains included sweetbreads with sautéed cèpes and boeuf bourguignon, which resembles a hamburger patty but was as bold with red wine and bacon as the original stew and so tender that the accompanying knife was unnecessary. A filet of sandre, a local river fish, in a creamy mustard sauce, was equally pleasing.
The several desserts made for a memorable ending. Strawberries in a bed of local yogurt and honey dance with lime zest, and the cakelike chocolate croustillant is dark and dense with a crunchy bottom layer. L’Hôtel du Centre
When Billard bought this six-room hotel and restaurant i n Meursault, a 15-minute drive from Beaune, the crowds followed and have stayed ever since. The 19th-century brick-front building houses a bar and a quaint dining room; in back is a small courtyard with ivy snaking down the walls and shawls thoughtfully draped over the wood chairs to help ward off the cold on chilly Burgundy evenings.
Appetizers of oeufs en meurette, the classic country French dish of eggs poached in a red-wine sauce, and chanterelle mushrooms sautéed with chives, were laden with flavour without being overly heavy. The entree options were richer but worth it: meaty lobster in a cream sauce of peas and fava beans, a perfectly browned roast chicken for two from a nearby farm, and a filet of John Dory that glistened with enough salted butter to make Julia Child proud. Desserts like crème brûlée with vanilla bourbon and a cold soup of mixed fruit sound basic; their taste is anything but.
Is there a winner in this friendly duel? I would have to say yes: It’s the diner.