Beauty beyond the beach
Discovering the rest of Fiji on a rainy day
It’s not supposed to rain in paradise, but even in Fiji, those famous blue skies can sometimes be overcast and grey. While the rainfall may dull the island nation’s famed natural beauty, it can’t do anything to dampen the welcoming spirit of its people.
We discovered that during a journey with Sigatoka River Safari, an outfitter that takes visitors down one of the country’s longest rivers for a rendezvous with people in rural villages. The trip allows foreigners to learn about how ordinary Fijians live.
It was our second day on Viti Levu, the largest of the 320-plus islands that comprise this South Pacific country, and it was the second day of rain. Instead of sulking in our hotel room because we couldn’t laze on the beach, we took the Sigatoka journey.
The trip downriver was exciting as we sped along in a jetboat at about 70 km/h. The river followed a valley lined with cloud-shrouded mountains. Forest and farmland sped past us and river birds scattered as we noisily motored along the river. Every once in a while, we’d pass local people. All would wave as we passed and we’d wave back. Welcoming visitors with genuine hospitality seems to come naturally to Fijians.
After following the snaking curves of the river for eight kilometres, the boat let us out and we trekked along for another kilometre or so until we came to the village. About 300 people live here in simple, one-storey houses mostly made of plastered brick.
Our guide was a local woman who explained the traditions and the daily lives of the people who live here, surviving by growing crops like tobacco, papaya and banana, both for sale and subsistence. The visits by the tour company are also beneficial, as 10 per cent of the ticket sales go to the village.
As our group walked the muddy path into town, people would smile, wave and heartily greet us with “bula,” a word that literally means “life” and is imbued with much more meaning.
We were welcomed into an open room lined with straw mats. Prayers and speeches were made, and we were welcomed as guests and offered kava to drink. After, we were invited into the community hall for a meal. Singers joined musicians with guitars and ukuleles to sing us songs of greeting. We all sat crosslegged on the floor to feast on a meal prepared by women in the village..
Before long, the party ended, and we had to leave, but shouts of “bula” and “vinaka,” or thank you, rang out as everyone departed happy.
Jaded travellers may question how genuine the welcome is from the villagers but it felt typical of the warmth Fijians extend to visitors throughout the country. It might explain why tourism is the nation’s largest industry.
It helps you understand Fiji is more than a beautiful tropical island, but a place made more beautiful by the people.