Montreal Gazette

Delectable German whites for every taste preference

- DRY BILL ZACHARKIW

Riesling 2012, Rüdesheime­r, Rheingau, Leitz, Germany white, $20.20, SAQ # 11688402. Exceptiona­l. Such a pristine minerality — not just a subtle streak, but one that has amplitude, that evolves, that offers such a complex low end to the wine. Texture is perfect. Fruit is there as well: ripe lime, melon. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, raw oysters. Riesling 2012, Trocken, Rheinhesse­n, Klaus Keller, Germany white, $25.25, SAQ # 10558446. One of my favourite producers of dry riesling in Germany. Keller manages to coax out the minerality while still showing enough fruit to give it some approachab­ility. This is pure rock, maybe with a twist of lemon pith. So edgy, nervy and fun to drink. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, white fish, mussels. Riesling 2011, Röttgen, Mosel, Heymann-Löwenstein, Germany white, $40.25, SAQ # 11858694. Really interestin­g, but hard to describe. The minerality is so dominant at first — smoky and dark. Then the fruit starts to peek out — almost a pineapple/ cantaloupe mix. Dry, lengthy and with great depth. Spectacula­r. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pair

ing idea: apéritif, lobster, scallops. FRUITY

Riesling 2011, Mosel, Mönch- hof, Germany white, $18.60, SAQ # 11334920. Excellent entry-level riesling. You can feel the slate soils. Spicy, and with a minerality that brings images of river stone to mind. This is classic Mosel: minerality up front, some exotic fruit and a dry, almost salty finish. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, shrimp stir-fries. Riesling 2011, Kabinet, Schieferge­stein, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Germany white, $24.90, SAQ # 11905649. Not a ton left, but I had to mention this. So slick. This wine is the perfection of balance and complexity, and for the price, it’s even more impressive. The acidity is there, but so beautifull­y integrated. The fruit moves from apricot to more exotic notes. There is a herbal, almost juniper note. I just swirled and swirled it, drank, and then it was gone. Serve at 8 C. Drink now2018. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, spicy Thai curries. Riesling 2011, Spätlese, Ürziger Würzgarten, Mosel, Joh. Jos. Christoffe­l Erben, Germany white, $32, SAQ # 10303224. Very young, so teetering between sweet and dry. The fruit is quite exotic — pineapple and apricots. The minerality is subtle, but is there with each sip. Serve with cheese for now, or wait maybe 10 years. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2030. Food-pairing idea: mixed cheese plates, chicken curries.

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