Montreal Gazette

WINES OF THE WEEk Bill Zacharkiw

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It is rare that a wine’s quality does not reflect its price. However, there are exceptions. The wines of the week are reserved for those wines that show exceptiona­l quality and outstandin­g value.

UNDER $17: EVERYDAY DRINKING Beaujolais shows its colours, despite the low price

Beaujolais Villages, Prince Philippe, Bouchard Ainé & Fils, France red,

$16.45, SAQ # 12073944. I must admit that this surprised me. Négociant Beaujolais rarely does it for me, but this has great fruit. A light, juicy Gamay that shows just enough tannin on the finish to hold it together. Easy-drinking wine at a good price, and still faithful to the appellatio­n. Serve at 16 C. Drink now. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, Chinese food (especially with oyster sauce).

$17-$22: MID-PRICED MARVEL Cabernet’s acidity keeps you coming back for more

Colli Berici 2011, Montebelve­dere, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dal Maso, Italy red, $19.60, SAQ # 11581007. Might redefine what you think about cabernet sauvignon. At only 12.5 per cent alcohol, this is cab in its leanest, freshest and juiciest incarnatio­n. Just-ripe blackberry, slightly leafy, and a long, savoury finish. This is decidedly un-creamy. Its lip-smacking acid drives you back for more after every sip. Yummy. Will show best at the table. Serve at 16-18 C. Drink now-2018. Food-pairing idea: filet mignon with wild mushrooms.

$22 AND UP: FOR A TREAT Chianti’s tannins grip your tongue

Chianti Classico 2009, Riserva, Il Grigio, San Felice, Italy red, $27, SAQ

# 703363. Might be my favourite Il Grigio since the 2005. While the aromatics conjure a juicy, fruit-forward Chianti, the mouth is something else: lean, focused, with tannins that grip your tongue. Herbal notes, leather and a distinct gamy note. So interestin­g, and it will get even more so in a few years. Serve at 18 C. Drink now2020. Food-pairing idea: lamb chops.

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