Montreal Gazette

Aussie rieslings pack zesty fruit and mineral notes

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Riesling 2010, Yellow Label, Wolf Blass, Australia white, $17.20, SAQ # 11034097. My favourite Wolf Blass wine is a great entry-level riesling. Built along notes of citrus, hinting at tropical fruit, you get subtle mineral notes and great length on the finish. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2016. Foodpairin­g idea: apéritif, oysters, sushi. Riesling 2012, Eden Valley, Peter Lehmann, Australia white, $18.60, SAQ # 11465962. Better than the 2011, as it shows more tension. Dry, mineral, but not without a certain weight. Love the pure lime and other citrus notes. If you fear the sweetness of riesling, this is a place to start. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2016. Foodpairin­g idea: apéritif, raw oysters, salad with goat cheese. Riesling 2009, Eden Valley, B3 Wines, Australia white, $24.55, SAQ # 11034935. Great example of Eden Valley riesling. Just a hint of lemon/ lime on the attack, followed by the minerality — a mix of slate and other rocks. Great weight, with that wellwater-type viscosity. Completely dry. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2018. Foodpairin­g idea: apéritif, richer fish with cream sauce. Riesling 2010, Watervale, Clare Valley, Mount Horrocks, Australia white, $26.30, SAQ # 11465997. If the Germans have the fruit, and Alsace the complexity, Australia gets the nod for the best dry and steely rieslings. Fantastic example here. Almost Chablislik­e in its restraint, but with hidden richness. Mouth-coating, and then a final mineral bite. Perfectly balanced and extremely finessed. Bravo. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2020. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster. Riesling 2012, Springvale, Mount Lofty Ranges, Grosset, Australia white, $38.25, SAQ # 11625081. Pure rock juice. The intensity here almost hurts. Lime, rock, lemon, rock. The persistenc­e is remarkable. Dry as a bone, but so very drinkable. Great. Serve at 8 C. Drink now-2022. Foodpairin­g idea: apéritif, oysters, sushi. Riesling 2012, Polish Hill, Grosset, Australia white, $50, SAQ # 10956022. Maybe the best Polish Hill I have tasted. Incredibly intense and focused wine. It has everything: the florals, lime and lemon zest, as well as a solid mineral streak. Needs a few years for the full story to be told. If you are serious about riesling, stock a few of these away. Serve at 8-10 C. Drink now-2025. Food-pairing idea: apéritif, lobster.

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