Montreal Gazette

Discoverin­g a passion for miso

Fermented soybean paste tastes great and is good for you

- Karen Barnaby is a Vancouver chef. KAREN BARNABY

I’ve been on a miso kick. It all started when a friend gave me a container of very special, well-aged, Korean miso.

It was familiar and comfortabl­e, like sitting in your father’s TV-watching chair as an adult.

Prior to that, I had used miso primarily as a marinade for fish and meat, and occasional­ly as a dressing on green beans or asparagus.

The first time I had miso was probably the way almost everyone did, as miso soup.

I was 20 and at Ottawa’s only Japanese restaurant with my Japanese boss. I remember we had sashimi, and there was miso soup to start.

Tiny cubes of tofu bobbed in the bowl and sliced green onion floated on the surface. I was fascinated by the way the more solid parts of the miso formed a “cloud,” smack in the centre of the bowl.

I thought it was so beautiful, and the taste was otherworld­ly, like nothing I had experience­d before.

An excited voice in my head kept repeating “Sashimi! Miso soup! Sashimi! Miso soup!” I knew I was being indoctrina­ted into something exciting, and it was something that would become a lifelong passion: Japanese food.

These days, with my interest in fermented foods, curing meats and vegetables, Korean cuisine and a new love for naturally occurring umami, I’m back to exploring miso again.

Tucked into the basement fridge is a tray of tofu misozuke, tofu blanketed in miso that in a few months will be transforme­d into a creamy “cheese.”

A slab of pork belly curing in miso will be ready in a few days and will be eaten with kimchee. There’s a little miso-tofu mayonnaise, a faux mayo, but good nonetheles­s.

And for experiment­ation purposes, there are five different types of miso for me to play with.

I may even try my hand at making miso one day, though I generally like to leave that type of thing to the experts.

And is there a container of the miso tahini spread from years past? You betcha!

 ?? STEVE BOSCH /POSTMEDIA NEWS ?? The four types of miso — from left, white, yellow, red and Hatcho — vary from mildly sweet to strong and salty, depending on fermentati­on.
STEVE BOSCH /POSTMEDIA NEWS The four types of miso — from left, white, yellow, red and Hatcho — vary from mildly sweet to strong and salty, depending on fermentati­on.

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