Montreal Gazette

Chasing winter all the way to the Andes

For skiers who dread the summer, a whole different hemisphere and culture beckon

- TONY XU

For those suffering from ski withdrawal during the summer months there is fresh powder calling south of the equator.

I’ve chased the winter twice in past summers on two different continents, and during my time in the Andes on the Argentine side, I experience­d some of my finest days on snow. While everything initially seemed to move at a slower pace, the culture was rich, the terrain was unique, and the food was first-class. There were several aspects of the experience skiing in Argentina that made it one of a kind.

The Andes is the longest continenta­l mountain range in the world, stretching about 7,000 kilometres. I spent most days hiking in the Cerro Catedral resort where backcountr­y is easily accessed, up to massive granite spires that led to either wide-open alpine powder bowls or steep couloirs, followed by moss-filled Palmero forests, with perfectly spaced bamboo trees.

When the snow wasn’t stable and the avalanche risk was high, I enjoyed my time in the resort. Chairlift rides were always amusing opportunit­ies to practice my broken Spanish with patient, friendly locals, who were more than keen to divulge travel secrets of their country. While ripping down the mountain in the resort, I occasional­ly skied into military training zones, full of soldiers, dressed in camouflage­d helmets, jackets, and snow pants. As I ordered empanadas and Quilmes beer during ski après, mobs of Brazilian tourists who had never seen snow before jumped out of tour buses, eager to start snowball fights. The flamboyant vibe coupled with the laissez-faire attitude added to the adventure. The pace in South America could be slow — or tranquilo, as they say in Spanish — but the experience is authentic and genuine.

Besides the terrain that South America has to offer and the joy of being immersed in a different culture, there’s something else that makes the ski experience in the Andes not only highly desirable, but 100 per cent unique in comparison to a ski trip in North America: During the off-season, several North American pro skiers and snowboarde­rs, as well as the ski industry’s top mountain guides, flock to South America to coach at adult ski camps.

Joining one of these camps not only ensures that itinerary details are sorted out for you, but also allows you to receive some of the best coaching a skier could possibly get, at an affordable cost. From participat­ing in a big mountain ski camp, I learned how to ski steeps from some of the top profession­al freeskiers in the world and how to make calculated decisions in the backcountr­y from some of the most knowledgea­ble off-piste guides and a valanche fore casters on the planet.

Skiing in South America isn’t only for the hardcore extreme skier. It’s an experience for anybody with an open mind, a passion for learning, and a craving for snow. If you’re feeling adventurou­s and haven’t had enough of winter, maybe now is time to start waxing the skis and packing the bags for winter again.

 ?? TONY XU/ POSTMEDIA NEWS ?? It’s not unusual to see the Argentine military training at the Cerro Catedral resort.
TONY XU/ POSTMEDIA NEWS It’s not unusual to see the Argentine military training at the Cerro Catedral resort.

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