Don’t be afraid to venture into the SAQ’s Cellier
Aglianico and nebbiolo grapes are putting southern Italy on the map
I know that many readers are still wary of entering the Cellier section of their local SAQ, for fear that the wines they’ll find there are all very expensive, or simply unfamiliar.
But it’s the place to go when you’re looking for interesting wines.
And no, the prices aren’t necessarily higher than what you would pay in the “regular” wine section. In fact, because of the incredibly high “promotional” budgets that wineries are forced to pay to have their wines listed in the “regular” section of the SAQ, the consumer ends up with a higher sticker price; as far as value goes, you are getting better wine for your cash in the Cellier section.
The most recent release of SAQ Cellier wines hit the shelves March 5 and March 19 — and this latest batch focuses on Italy. While many regions of Italy have wines represented, I want to concentrate on two grapes that I love — it gives us the opportunity to try some excellent wines at very reasonable prices. These two grape varieties are at opposite ends of the taste spectrum. One is aglianico, a southern Italian grape that will satisfy those of you looking for a more fullbodied, powerful wine. The other is nebbiolo, the great grape of Piedmont that is behind some of my favourite wines in the world.
AGLIANICO
While there is no definitive proof, it is believed that aglianico was planted in southern Italy sometime around the 6th century BC. There are others who argue that it came from other settlers, but every piece of literature I have read on the subject indicates that the grape has been grown in southern Italy for well over two centuries.
One of the benefits of having such a long and enduring history is that grape growers have no doubt tried planting it in a number of different types of soil and at varying altitudes. The results of that trial and error can be seen today.
Aglianico grows in two very specific areas in the south, the appellation of Taurasi and Irpinia in the region of Campania, and Aglianico del Vulture in the region of Basilicata, which is the “instep” of the Italian boot. These two areas are in close proximity — about 60 km apart — and share certain characteristics: one is volcanic soil and the other is altitude.
These lean volcanic soils, which are poor in terms of nutrients but high in mineral content, afford the wines a smoky mineral note that is very distinctive for a red. What the altitude affords the wines is a refreshing acidity, which for a warm climate is a welcome characteristic.
Despite showing minerality and good acidity, aglianico is no wimpy red. It’s known for having some serious tannins and a host of dark fruit, licorice and chocolate notes. It’s burly so this is not the wine to be sipping by the pool in the summer. But with BBQ season and steak time just around the corner — when you will want a big, powerful wine to accompany your meal — it’s a great choice.
There is one major difference between the two. In Taurasi and Irpinia, aglianico need be only 85 per cent of the blend while in Aglianico del Vulture, it is 100 per cent aglianico. The soils in the Taurasi region are also a bit more complex, with clay and limestone, which tends to give a slightly richer wine.
So here are a few choices for you: two are from the Cellier release and two others are wines worthy of your attention.
Molise 2011, Aglianico, Di Majo Norante, Italy red, $18.80, SAQ # 12476591. From a third growing region north of Taurasi, dark-fruited, ripe, textured but with rustic and gritty tannin and solid mineral finish. You can feel the heat of the sunshine here. Ripe but with great finesse and restraint. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2017. Food pairing idea: Brochettes of beef with tamari/ ginger marinade.
Irpinia 2008, Terredora Di Paolo, Italy red, $21.60, SAQ # 11952074. Lighter-styled but with that characteristic dark fruit and spice of the aglianico grape. Black plum and raspberry, ripe and with a nicely textured palate. Good introduction to the grape. Serve at 18C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Braised meats.
Irpinia 2011, Rubrato Aglianico, Feudi di San Gregorio, Italy red, $22.45, SAQ # 12476680. Big wine. Extremely tightly wound. Full of minerals, grippy tannin and black fruit. It’s a Tootsie Roll of intensity, but you just want more and more. Really good. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2018. Food pairing idea: T-Bone with steak spice on the grill.
Aglianico del Vulture 2012, Azienda Agricola Camerlengo Antelio, Italy red, $25.55, SAQ # 1195196. 100-per-cent aglianico. Ripe and round, full of sun-baked fruit. While it gives the impression of ease, underneath the fruit are some biting tannins. Not heavy in the least, simply powerful and full of flavour. One of my favourite Italian grapes and an excellent interpretation of it. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2020. Food pairing idea: T-Bone with steak spice on the grill.
NEBBIOLO
I have written a number of times about my love for nebbiolo. It’s the grape behind my favourite red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco. These are wines that can be very delicate yet incredibly ageworthy. They have everything that I look for in a wine — interesting and complex aromatics, superb acidity and mouth-coating, razor-thin tannin.
And with bottle age, they develop even more. What do you get? Aromatics of cherries and other red berries, faded roses, truffles, at least to start.
But these wines can be quite expensive. A secondary appellation called Langhe does exist, whereby Barolo and Barbaresco producers can use declassified wines, quite often made with young vines that do not show the complexity that they require for their top wines. These are the bargains in Peidmont because while they may not show the complexity, you get more immediate drinkability alongside at least the central aromatic themes of Barolo and Barbaresco.
What to try? Here are a few wines from the Cellier release alongside some other favourites:
Barbaresco 2010, Castello di Neive, Italy red, $22.95, SAQ # 12466377. Awesome. So crunchy and fresh but with great fruit. This is so distinctive. Nebbiolo done right and at a good price, excellent tannin that slaps and bites, and you just want more. Should properly be labelled a Langhe as it doesn’t show the complexity or stuffing of what I expect from a Barbaresco, but still very worthy, no matter what they call it. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2018. Food pairing idea: Risotto with porcini mushroom, roasted fowl.
Langhe 2013, Produttori del Barbaresco, Italy red, $24.10. SAQ # 11383617. Best value nebbiolo on the market. The 2013 is much like every vintage I have tasted from this co-operative — excellent. Refined tannin, succulent fruit, very fresh, balanced acidity. Doesn’t have the complexity of Barolo or the power of Barbaresco, but you would be hard-pressed to find another nebbiolo even close to this price that shows this degree of refinement. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2018. Food pairing idea: Risotto with porcini mushroom, roasted fowl.
Langhe 2012, Pelissero, Italy red, $27.95, SAQ # 12465307. Good Langhe. Just a touch of barrel to round off the corners, but with just-ripe fruit, those delicate cherry and faded rose aromatics of nebbiolo. Tannins are fine, very finessed. Pretty wine. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2016. Food pairing idea: Pork roast with fruit compote.
Barolo 2010, Andrea Oberto, Italy red, $42.25, SAQ # 12465905. Pretty solid. Nice mix of oak aging and the delicate fruit notes of the nebbiolo. Certain mass underneath the tannin. Elegant but with a more textured mid-palate. This has some energy to it. Solid wine for a good price. Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2018. Food pairing idea: Osso Bucco.
Barolo 2010, Serralunga, Principiano Ferdinando, Italy red, $44.50, SAQ # 11387301. Delicious, youthful Barolo. The fruit is vibrant — a hard cherry candy that’s been dipped in herb-driven Amaro. Slight smoky herbal note, firm and grippy tannin that slaps you around. Ideally a wine that you put away for 5 to 7 years, but fun to drink right now. A mustbuy for any Barolo lover! Serve at 18C. Drink now to 2020. Food pairing idea: Lamb with herbs and mushrooms.
I want to concentrate on two grapes that I love … These two grape varieties are at opposite ends of the taste spectrum.