PAMPERED IN CAMBODIA
Affordable luxury awaits travellers
In 10 days or so, without rushing around, you can get plenty of pampering at an incredibly luxurious ocean resort, take in the culture at Siem Reap and seriously shop in Phnom Penh. Jane Mundy
If you think Cambodia is for budget backpackers or intrepid travellers, it’s time to think again.
The country has never been an obvious vacation destination, mainly because of its violent history — but times change. In the not-too distant past, visitors would typically overnight in Phnom Penh and then spend a gruelling day on a bumpy road to Siem Reap, look at the temples and go home.
The country has progressed, mainly due to increased airline routes and improved overland links to major cities. More luxurious offerings for tourists naturally follow, and compared with other countries, in Cambodia, such indulgences are still affordable. Adventure is accessible and safe.
In 10 days or so, without rushing around, you can get plenty of pampering at an incredibly luxurious ocean resort, take in the culture at Siem Reap and seriously shop in Phnom Penh.
In two hours, my driver transported me from frenetic Phnom Penh airport to tranquillity at Knai Bang Chatt, a boutique hotel in the seaside town of Kep. Beautiful lounging areas among tropical gardens surround 18 tastefully furnished rooms. For dinner, the freshest snapper with coconut cream was perfectly cooked and the made-to-order noodle soup for breakfast (Khmers love their noodles) was equally good.
The only disappointment was the massage — their spa could be hit or miss.
The best was yet to come. My travelling companion, Lorian, who lives part-time in Kep, and I, went first to the port of Sihanoukville (unless you like casinos and beach hawkers, bypass this tacky tourist town). We boarded the boat to Song Saa Private Island in the Gulf of Thailand. Not too many people have traversed this area, the Koh Rang archipelago, with water so pristine the resort makes its own salt by simply boiling a pot of ocean water.
Song Saa is Cambodia’s first island resort, and possibly one of the most sustainable resorts worldwide. The 27 over-water bungalows and jungle and oceanview villas were built using local materials and the hotel owners have established a large marine sanctuary.
They support local communities, and Rory Hunter, CEO and founder, has been nominated as a Young Global Leader for 2015 by the World Economic Forum.
We toured the nearby fishing village that Rory, his wife Melita, and their investors support, which includes both a school and library. Rest and relaxation are key, but decisions must be made. Attentive staff can serve dinner on a private white sand beach, hideaway or poolside. Or it can be delivered to your expansive villa with eight-metre thatched ceiling, private pool and full kitchen. Oh yes, there are two restaurants.
When travelling in Cambodia, expect gourmet cuisine featuring local food any time, anywhere. Lorian first visited Siem Reap in the early 1990s, when the only decent hotel in town was the Grand Hotel d’Angkor. The Grand lost lustre gradually until recently restored to its former charm by Raffles. Now, there are hundreds of options, but we chose Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor for its superb service, the 1930s elevator, the biggest pool in town, and excellent champagne breakfast buffet.
Lorian has visited the temples many times. Her itinerary allowed us to see everything in two days and avoid the crowds.
We met our driver (hired just outside the hotel grounds for $50 US per day) and in his air-conditioned Toyota, with its unlimited bottled water and cool towels, we arrived at our destination of Angkor Wat just before sunrise.
We had purchased an Angkor Wat pass the previous day — $40 for three days. You can buy a pass at the toll booth, or for a few extra bucks, ask your driver.
The temple complex is so expansive, the crowds seemed to dissipate after sunup and in some spots — there are more than 100 temples — we didn’t see anyone. By midmorning, we were back in Siem Reap. There is a limit to temple gazing.
On the next day, we headed to the pink sandstone temples of Banteay Srei. At Phnom Kulen park, we dipped our feet in cool river water among 1,000 stone lingams (Hindu sacred phallic carvings) and walked up the “medicine mountain” before heading to spooky Ta Prohm temple — discovered by the French in the 19th century, and more recently by Angelina Jolie in Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.
Finally, we stopped at Bayon, the stunning main temple in Anchor Thom, and home to 216 giant eerie faces. Be sure to visit the Landmine Museum on the road to Bayon. Bring tissues.
So much is written about the ancient Khmer empire, its temples and the city of Angkor. Suffice to say I hope to return, as most travellers do. We returned to Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor just in time for happy hour in the Elephant Bar.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. So we flew from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh to stay at another Raffles hotel, Raffles Hotel Le Royal, where we planned our primping, pampering and shopping route. Here you can sip a Femme Fatale made famous by Jackie Kennedy, in yet another Elephant Bar and check out the coral lipstick smudge preserved on her champagne glass. This hotel is also steeped in history.
The price for just about any service here is a bargain.
For instance, at Seeing Hands, massage clinics with blind masseurs, shiatsu treatments are less than $10.
There are at least 30 therapeutic clinics nationwide, including a few in Siem Reap. Many customers at the spotless Derma-Care skin clinic, run by a dermatologist, opt for serious treatments (e.g. Botox, chemical peels and laser surgery). I had an anti-aging facial, manicure and pedicure and highly recommend all three. Body maintenance taken care of, it was time to shop.
First stop has to be the lovely tree-lined Street 240, which is known as a “barang” (foreigner) street. Pick a frock from rows of handcrafted quality cotton clothing and bedding at Bliss. Also housed in this block of colonialera buildings, are Jasmine, for Cambodian silk, Water Lily, for accessories and Le Lézard Blue, for quality artwork. Fortified by a lychee-mint cooler at The Shop, we strolled over to Monument Books, which stocks a huge selection of eclectic English-language books.
If you want to know more about Angkor Wat and Cambodia’s history, go there.
Next on the agenda was Central Market, also known as “rich-people’s market” by locals. The wares in this yellow art deco building are pricier than they are at other markets, but the quality is a step up. It has everything — clothes and bolts of silk, gemstones and silver, books and maps, and plenty of fresh-food stalls.
Loaded down with purchases, I needed another suitcase from the Russian market. During the 1980s it was the foreigners’ market, and most foreigners at that time were Russians. If you like flea markets
and garage sales, you’ll love it there. Walk around the perimeter first — the market takes up one city block.
The Silk Palace is No. 1 in Cambodia for Ikat, an intricate dyeing technique, and you might find genuine treasures among the “madeto-order” antiques in neighbouring shops (the real McCoy is mostly under lock and key). Cool down at Near and Far Fruit Shakes near the main entrance before heading into the bowels of the market. First, buy a fan.
Cambodia has grown into a world-class destination, attracting travellers from all walks of life.
But go now, while its luxury is still affordable.