Montreal Gazette

Time to taste: Valpolicel­la, Amar one, Bardolino

- BILL ZACHARKIW

Val poli cella Clas si co 2014, Allegrini, Italy red, $ 16.55, SAQ # 11208747: Tart cherries, crunchy acid ity, delicate and fruity, but still with some de cent length. Just a touch of pep per on the finish. Clas sic. Keep cool. Resid ual sug ar: 4.1 g/ L. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now. Food pair ing idea: apéritif, brus chet ta.

Bar do li no 2012, Al bi no Piona, Italy red, $ 22.15, SAQ # 12717480: While from neighbouri­ng Bar do li no and not Val poli cella, the grapes re main the same. This is what many basic Val poli cella and Bar do li no should aim for. Textured, red- fruit ed and very fresh. But this is far from being overly simple. Good wine for the Beaujolais lover. Resi du al sugar:3.1g/L. Serve at: 15 C. Drink now- 2018. Food pairing idea: apéritif, char cu terie.

Valpolice ll a Superio re 2013, Tel os IlR os so, TenutaS ant’ Antonio, Italy red, $ 25.40, SAQ # 12755179: Well done Val poli cella that shows a touch of ripassosty­le fruit, but still a lot of Clas si co freshness. Oak is way in the back ground. Mid- weight wine that works very well. Residual sugar: n/a.S er veat:18C. Drink now- 2019. Food pairing idea: veal roast with fruit compote.

Valpolice ll a Superio re Ripasso 2013, Prà, Italy red, $ 30, SAQ # 12717826: Pretty re strained ripasso with the accent on the fruit, albeit dried fruits like prunes, figs, raisins. Loads of spice on the finish. Oak is there, but nice ly in the back ground. Well done and nice ly dry on the finish. Re si du al sugar:n/a.S er veat:18C. Drink now- 2021. Food pairing idea: pork or veal roast, strongly flavoured cheese.

Val poli cella Superiore Ripasso 2012, Castellier­e delle Guaite, Montresor, Italy red, $ 27.90, SAQ # 12207527: Much more structure and less sweetness than most ripasso. Two years ag ing in l ar gefoudres,30hL barrels, brings little oak influence. Cherry, cas sis, spice and gritty tannin. Good. Re sidual sugar:5g/L. Serve at :18 C. Drink now- 2022. Food pairing idea: braised meats, mid- weight dry cheeses.

Amar one 2012, Black Label, Pas qua, Italy red, $ 37.50, SAQ # 11768171: Shows a fair amount of fresh oak, but there’s a fair amount of wine under neath. Black cherry and cas sis, lots of spice and lay ered tan nin. Very tight, very closed at the mo ment. Give it five to sev en years to open up. Re sid ual sug ar: n/ a. Serve at: 18 C. Drink now- 2028. Food pair i ng i dea: steak with spice, dry cheese like Parmigiano- Reg gi a no.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada