Montreal Gazette

Indianapol­is is quirky, fun

- BETH J. HARPAZ The Associated Press

INDIANAPOL­IS So, Indianapol­is, are you an old Rust Belt city or are you the next Brooklyn?

Maybe a little of both — though locals bristled at a recent article in Bon Appétit magazine that compared Indy’s dining scene to Brooklyn’s hipster vibe. Indianapol­is has its own identity and shouldn’t be defined by what counts as cool elsewhere. Sure, there’s oldschool Indianapol­is: massive stone monuments that swallow blocks of downtown, divine corned beef sandwiches at Shapiro’s and shrimp cocktail with the world’s hottest horseradis­h at St. Elmo’s. The Indy 500 celebrates its 100th race this year.

Don’t let the abandoned CocaCola bottling plant on Massachuse­tts Avenue fool you into thinking the city’s best days are behind it. Not only is “Mass Ave” hopping with small shops and creative eateries, but other corners of the city are bubbling with energy, too.

One thing’s for sure. Indy’s old nickname, Naptown, is now best used ironically, with a hashtag, because this city has woken up.

WHAT’S NEW

Indy’s dining scene is exploding. Milktooth serves breakfast and lunch, including a heavenly sour cream biscuit with bacon maple butter. At Black Market’s communal tables, adventurou­s palates will enjoy roasted marrow bones and beef tongue cocktail, while more convention­al diners can have a roasted half chicken or braised lamb shoulder.

The Indy 500 has long had a museum on site, but fans will also want to see what’s new on Main Street in Speedway, where the racetrack is located. Have a craft beer at the Daredevil Brewing Co., or a pinot noir at The Foyt Wine Vault, owned by the family of race-car driver A.J. Foyt. For a wild ride, try Speedway Indoor Karting.

CLASSIC ATTRACTION­S

Downtown, stroll or jog the Canal Walk and White River State Park. At the Indianapol­is Museum of Art, enjoy Georgia O’Keeffe, Edward Hopper and a mesmerizin­g lobby installati­on made from books donated by the public, suspended from the ceiling. The museum grounds offer formal gardens, rustic trails and a 100-acre park. Outdoor art includes Funky Bones, a giant skeleton made from benches and Park of the Laments, a hauntingly serene spot with stone walls, a tunnel and grassy walled field.

 ?? PHOTOS: BETH J. HARPAZ/ THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Right: Flowers bloom at Oldfields Gardens, part of the Indianapol­is Museum of Art campus in Indianapol­is.
PHOTOS: BETH J. HARPAZ/ THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Right: Flowers bloom at Oldfields Gardens, part of the Indianapol­is Museum of Art campus in Indianapol­is.
 ??  ?? Above: A mural called My Affair with Kurt Vonnegut, by Pamela Bliss, honours the Indianapol­is author.
Above: A mural called My Affair with Kurt Vonnegut, by Pamela Bliss, honours the Indianapol­is author.

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