Annual holiday season guide to bubbly
Bill Zacharkiw picks the top sparkling wines for all holiday season occasions
There are more than 570 Champagnes and sparkling wines listed on the website of the Société des alcools du Québec. There has never been so much choice. So what should you buy, and how much should you spend?
Let’s start with the eternal question: is Champagne worth it?
I am a devoted fan. While I hesitate to pay over $40 on most wines, more and more I find myself spending the extra dollars on my favourite Champagnes. There is something about the subtle aromatic complexity, minerality and finesse of the bubbles that set Champagne apart.
If you have never drunk a top Champagne, then it’s difficult to describe why you should. “Value” is a relative term, and I am not trying to justify the price. But I love sharing Champagne with friends, and it’s rare that they don’t taste the difference.
Just in time for the holiday season, here are my suggestions for the top sparkling wines I have drunk — and not just tasted — over the past few months.
Cava, Brut, Reserva, Segura Viudas, Spain mousseux, $14.95, SAQ # 158493. Like every year, incredibly refined for the price. Feels a hint riper, even sweeter than the past, but you still get what makes this the best inexpensive sparkler at the SAQ: apples, florals, mineral, delicate bubbles. Grape varieties: parellada, maccabeu, xarel-lo. Residual sugar: 9 g/l. Serve at 6C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, oysters.
Sparkling cider rosé (with cranberry), Entre Pierre et Terre, Quebec cider, $16.25, SAQ # 12030291: Want something pink? Then why not a Quebec-made cider? Like everything this cider house makes, it is done with great restraint. Apple notes are there, while the cranberry adds extra acidic grip and some bright red fruit. Very dry with elegant bubbles. At 8 per cent alcohol, you can drink lots as well. Impressive. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at 6-8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif. Cava, Brut, Parés Baltà, Spain sparkling, $17.95, SAQ # 10896365: Organic. Like biting into a fresh apple, but there is much more here. Very floral, dried pungent flowers with notes of almond. Less finessed than the Segura, but with more flavour. Grape varieties: parellada, maccabeu, xarel-lo. Residual sugar: 5.3 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, smoked fish.
Crémant de Limoux, Prima Perla, Paul Mas, France sparkling, $19.95, SAQ # 13032511: Richer styled bubbles that work phenomenally well. This is wonderfully textured with a tight core that is heightened by fine, elegant bubbles. Considering the under $20 price tag, even more highly recommendable. Grape varieties: chardonnay, chenin blanc, mauzac, pinot noir. Residual sugar: 5.3 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, foie gras, cheese plates.
Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene 2015, Crede, Bisol, Italy sparkling, $22.15, SAQ # 10839168: My perennial favourite among Proseccos and the 2015 might be the best yet. Lemon, pears, flowery, dried flowers. More finesse and less residual sugar than most Proseccos but the same ease of drinking. Grape variety: Glera. Residual sugar: 7.8 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif.
Saumur, Brut, Cuvée Élégance, Château de Beauregard, France sparkling, $23, SAQ # 13031738: Very bright fruit, starting with citrus and moving toward peach as it opens. Fine bubbles. Not particularly mineral but this is joy in a bottle. Easy and delicious. Grape varieties: chardonnay, chenin blanc, mauzac, pinot noir. Residual sugar 7.7 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif. Crémant de Limoux 2013, Tête de Cuvée, Clos des Demoiselles, Laurens, France sparkling, $23.40, SAQ # 10498973: Richer textured Limoux that doesn’t sacrifice freshness and elegance. More floral than last year but the orchard fruit, spice and mineral is there, as are the delicate bubbles. Great all-around bubbles. Grape varieties: chardonnay, chenin blanc, pinot noir. Residual sugar: 12 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, smoked salmon.
Vouvray 2014, Brut, Vincent Carême, France sparkling, $25.25, SAQ # 11633591: Last year’s favourite sparkling wine is also this year’s choice. Same blend of stone fruits and citrus on the attack, biscuit and rock on the finish. Maybe a touch richer than last vintage. Elegance, depth, it has it all. Grape variety: chenin blanc. Residual sugar: 7.9 g/l. Serve at 8-10C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, seafood canapés, sushi.
Trento, Brut, Méthode Traditionelle, Ferrari, Italy sparkling, $26.05, SAQ # 10496898: Has a touch of smoky brioche on the nose. Minerality is there and lingers nicely and morphs into a salty, iodine note. Very large wine. Very juicy. While less finessed, the saltiness keeps bringing you back. Good food sparkler. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 7.3 g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, sushi, lobster, white meats.
Cava Rosé 2014, De Nit, Raventos I Blanc, Spain sparkling, $27.20, SAQ # 12097954: Pink yes, but just an intonation of red fruit — as it should be. Hard to find good rosé at this price but the aromatics are so alluring. Cherry, florals, mineral. Drink now. Grape variety: parellada, maccabeu, xarel-lo, monstrell. Residual sugar: 4 g/l. Serve at 8-10C. Drink now. Serve at 8C. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, grilled salmon, salmon tartare.
Champagne, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Paul Goerg, France sparkling, $45.75, SAQ # 11766597: Shows green apple, fennel, a slightly salty iodine feel, chalky minerality and with a rich and comfortable finish. Richer styled. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 11g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, cold lobster and shrimp.
Champagne rosé, Premier Cru, Forget Brimont, France sparkling, $51.75, SAQ # 10845883: Explosive fruit, fresh red berries with a salty note on the finish. No sweetness, rather a richly textured sparkling that works best with food. Grape varieties: pinot noir, pinot meunier, chardonnay. Residual sugar: 13g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, cold foie gras, salmon. Champagne, Brut, Nathalie Falmet, France sparkling, $56.75, SAQ # 11797377: Quickly becoming one of my favourite inexpensive Champagnes. Wonderfully complex with red apple, orchard fruit, fennel and rock. The bubbles are delicate, but the texture is rich and so comforting. Grape varieties: pinot noir, chardonnay. Residual sugar: 11g/l. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing idea: Aperitif, shrimp and lobster with mayonnaise.
Champagne, Extra Brut, Les Vignes de Montagueux, Jacques Lassaigne, France sparkling, $61.25, SAQ # 12061311: If raw oysters are on the menu, I look for a more skeletal and dry wine, and this is one of my favourites. Aromas of iodine, smoke and apples. There’s just enough chardonnay fat around the mineral/ acid core to give it some weight. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 1.2 g/l. Serve at 10C. Drink now-2018. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, raw oysters.
Champagne, Brut, Blanc de blancs, Cuis 1er cru, Pierre Gimonnet, France mousseux, $61.75, SAQ # 11553209: Quite nervy and not overly toasty. Filled with green apple and orchard notes. Riper styled, offers a textured palate without residual sugar. Great aperitif sparkling wine. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: 7 g/l. Serve at 10C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, smoked salmon, sushi.
Champagne, Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Henriot, France sparkling, $78.75, SAQ # 10796946: Always so good. Salty, mineral, Granny Smith apple and orchard fruit, nutty, and then a rich finish. Sexy as all heck. Exceptional with a fleshy oyster. Grape variety: chardonnay. Residual sugar: n/a. Serve at 8C. Drink now. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, raw oysters.
Champagne Grand Cru, Extra Brut, V.P, Égly-Ouriet, France sparkling, $131, SAQ # 11537989 (Signature store only): Their cuvée Tradition ($97.50, SAQ # 11538025) is a favourite. This extra aged bottling is sublime. Shows exceptional complexity with fruit ranging from apples, oranges to peaches. Mineral aspect thumps in the background. Profound finesse of the bubbles. Grape variety: pinot noir, chardonnay. Residual sugar: 2 g/l. Serve at 1012C. Drink now-2019. Food pairing suggestion: Aperitif, white meats, lobster. gazettewine@gmail.com twitter.com/BillZacharkiw Facebook: billzacharkiwwine You can hear Bill Zacharkiw talk about wine on CHOM-FM (97.7) every Friday at 7:45 a.m.