Casino stands behind hiring of Robuchon
Loto-Québec courted controversy when it tapped the talents and brand-name cachet of French superstar chef Joël Robuchon for a glamorous new Casino de Montréal restaurant. The provincial lottery corporation has been getting a roasting in Montreal’s close-knit restaurant and foodie scene over the decision to sign up a foreigner instead of opting for a homegrown star. Critics also contend the move represents unfair competition against the economically fragile local restaurant industry.
But the agency says it fully weighed the pros and cons of going with a celebrity chef from the international gastronomic galaxy as part of a major reset of its corporate strategy: broadening the client base and winning over a younger crowd by highlighting entertainment-related activities beyond just gambling. The new restaurant — L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon — is a key element in a move to pitch its cash-cow casinos (it runs three others in the province) to a more diverse demographic by playing up the food and entertainment, officials say.
Loto-Québec spokeswoman Marilyne Desrochers said the corporation anticipated a possible backlash to the Robuchon deal. “We thought about it, although we also thought about the advantages it would bring to Quebec gastronomy when you attract a big name, like when you attract a big brand such as Chanel or Rolls-Royce.
“We visited just about everywhere around the world to see what was being done on the gastronomic scene and Chef Robuchon is a kind of rock star of the gastronomic world.”
The restaurant, in the Expo 67-era former French and Quebec pavilions on Île-Notre-Dame, is part of a globe-girdling collection of more than 25 owned by the 71-year-old Robuchon, including a Michelin three-star venue at Las Vegas’ MGM Grand. Local restaurateur David McMillan of Joe Beef fame slammed Casino de Montréal’s swish new eatery as a “McDonald’s de luxe.”
In going after the big aprons of the culinary set, Loto-Québec is following the lead of many major casino operators in a bid to stand out against heightened competition, including online gambling and social casino games. “Having famous chefs is part of the process. There are advantages to having a name brand,” said veteran U.S. casino consultant Steven Norton. “The biggest issue with the casino industry is growing competition.”
In its 2015-2016 annual report, Loto-Québec says “renewing the clientele is a pressing issue in the casino industry.”
“By leveraging the casinos’ related products, such as the bars and restaurants, these initiatives attract new clients who like entertainment activities centred on socializing.”
The Casino de Montréal got a $305-million facelift and renovation over the past several years and among the changes are an interactive multimedia space — La Zone — targeting a younger crowd; the Cabaret du Casino with a cuttingedge sound system for live shows; theme nights; and skill-based video games.
François Meunier, spokesman for the Association des restaurateurs du Québec, says the casino, which no doubt forked out big bucks to get Robuchon — Loto- Québec refuses to disclose the financial details of the deal — will have to lure more high-roller tourists from outside the province to avoid cannibalizing Montreal’s restaurant industry. “It’s a question of unfair competition,” he said. The playing field is not level because L’Atelier is heavily subsidized by the government, he added. “They’re in another league but they remain in direct competition with us.”
Loto-Québec’s Desrochers says L’Atelier sources about 70 per cent of its products locally, and that it’s staffed by locals and run by Montreal chef Éric Gonzalez.
It’s a question of unfair competition. (L’Atelier is) in another league but they remain in direct competition with us.