FIT TIPS
Are you wearing the correct bra size? It’s a question most women will bristle and maybe even blush at, but experts say many of us are wearing the wrong-sized brassiere. Whether it’s miscommunication, a lack of patience in the fitting room, or flat-out den
THE FIT FIGHT
Many experts say women are often led to believe that bra sizing starts at 32A and ends at 40D, but that’s not the case.
“Most women don’t fit in the ‘regular sizes,’” Levan says. “And there’s nothing wrong with that. There’s nothing wrong with being aG, F or H, either. Nobody said the alphabet had to stop at D.”
Levan says the fear of fitting into a size that is considered “unconventional” (North American bra sizes now go up to size 52 I) can leave women feeling abnormal or uncomfortable with their bodies.
“They’re ashamed of their breasts and want to hide them,” Levan says.
There are women who refuse to believe they’re bigger or smaller than they originally thought, or buy an incorrect cup size in order to feel better about their breasts.
Karine Allard, a designer for Wonderbra, says it’s relatively simple for a women to tell when she’s wearing the wrong bra size, beyond just feeling unsupported or uncomfortable.
“If the bra is riding up at the back, it means the band is not the correct size,” Allard explains.” Breast tissue bulging from the top of cups, or sides, usually means the cup is the incorrect size.”
Allard says it’s a delicate balance between going up or down in cup sizes versus band sizes. Most women will automatically grab another band size when a bra fits funny in the fitting room, but often a better fit can be attained by going up or down in a band size and vice versa in the cup size.
These technical fit details are just a few reasons why the best way to ensure you’re wearing the correct size is to have a professional fitting, a service that is offered for free at most lingerie stores. It’s a step that’s essential when your body is changing shape, such as during or after pregnancy, or in times of rapid weight loss or gain.
“Ask for a professional fitting so you know what size you are looking for, and then choose a variety of bras to take into the fitting room, so you are not running back and forth,” Allard suggests. “Take your time and try on each one, adjusting straps and back closure. Then try a T-shirt on over to (check) that final look.”
While some women may want to refresh their lingerie collection a few times a year, Allard recommends those of us who loathe the trying-on and fitting experience to tough it out at least once per year.
“A woman’s body changes year to year so it is important to be refit,” she says. “Bras over time will lose elasticity and shape, and it is extremely important to wear a proper-fitting, supportive bra.”
BUILDING A LINGERIE WARDROBE
Armed with the correct cup and band size, the next thing to consider is the types and styles of bras you’ll need. Yes, you’ll need more than one.
“For a North American, it’s utilitarian and functional. It’s never about sensation,” Kathryn Kemp-Griffin, author of the new book Paris Undressed: The Secrets of French Lingerie (Ambrosia, 2016), says of lingerie’s role in women’s lives today.
The Canadian writer who calls Paris home has studied the differences between North American women’s attitudes toward lingerie versus those of the French for more than 20 years.
“In North America, we somehow justify that as long as it fits, that’s enough,” she says. “In France, it has to fit, of course. But if it doesn’t look good, it doesn’t go off the design floor. That’s the whole job. It’s not even about settling for less. They wouldn’t even consider it.”
While North American women view bras as a solution to a problem, Kemp-Griffin says French women view choosing lingerie as an intensely personal “experience” that’s similar to choosing a haute couture creation. Not everyone requires a rainbow of dainty lace underthings, but there are a few key pieces and colours that every woman should own.
“Women always need the basics of a light beige that can be worn under white or any other light shades; black for darker clothing and all year round, including that little black sleeveless dress for summer,” Allard says. “And, of course, it is always great to have a few seasonal colours such as burgundy/red, pink and blues.”
For styles, there are nine basic types of bras, which Kemp- Griffin details in her book: balconette (“a style that covers only the lower part of the breast to lift and enhance, giving a straight bust line.”); demi cup (“covering half to three-quarters of the breast, the cup is shaped to give a plump, upward-rounded curve while providing the necessary support.”); full cup (“a classic shape with deep cups providing full coverage and support.”); moulded (“a seamless, pre-formed cup ... that gives breasts a natural, smooth and discreet shape under tight clothing ”); pushup (“angled cups with padding to push the breasts together, enhancing cleavage and creating an illusion of volume”); plunge (ideal for the deepest necklines, a plunge bra has a lower centre gore — the fabric between the cups — which increases cleavage while maintaining support); seamed (made of two or three pieces that are sewn together, creating seams that are designed to lift, control and shape), strapless; and a sports bra.
Of those nine styles, experts say women should own four to seven of them.
“An everyday bra, which could be underwire or wire-free based on preference; a sports bra for any activity such as yoga, walking or running; a strapless/convertible is a must for those styles of outwear including tanks and off-the-shoulder tops; and most women also want to have a weekend comfort bra, which could be seamless,” Allard says.
WEAR AND TEAR
Once you’re wearing the correct size and style, Levan says the major concern is proper wear and care. Even the most basic of brassieres requires a bit of delicate treatment. (As in absolutely no contact with the dryer, and no more wearing the same bra for a week straight.) “You should never wear the same bra two days in a row. Basically, a bra is made from very delicate materials,” she explains. “The back of your bra is the part of your bra that provides 50 per cent of the support. It is made from elastane and Lycra, so when they combine with your body oils they can stretch out.” Levan says women must let their bras “rest” in between wears so the fabric can breathe and re-form. “The more you wear a bra, the quicker it gets used,” she says. “If you rotate them, they’re going to last a lot longer.” Not washing your bras often enough is another sin. So, what’s the perfect wear-to-wash ratio? Levan says it’s two-to-one. “I always ask women ‘how often do you wash your bras?’ And they’re always embarrassed,” she says. “It will really make your bra (last) a lot longer if you take care of it and wash it properly.” The perfect formula for care is to hand-wash the garments in cold water with delicate soap. If possible avoid the washing machine, but if you have to use it use the delicate setting and put each bra in a small laundry pouch in order to help keep its shape and avoid snags. And never put it in the dryer. “The heat will kill all the material,” Levan says.
THE BIG SPEND
Bra shoppers should try on new styles and spend more than $20 on them, embracing the idea that you can — and should — invest in lingerie.
“We will spend thousands of dollars on a handbag, a pair of shoes or a dress. Why? Because people see it and it’s all about status, and what people are going to think,” Levan says.
“We haven’t been born into a culture that talks about lingerie very much. It’s more about being practical. People here want to buy a bra that they can do anything in. It has to be able to be worn under a T-shirt, you have to be able to go to the gym in it, and then go to the office. That’s not what a bra is.
“It is the first thing that touches your skin, so you have to be comfortable in it. I think it’s important to take care of yourself, and not just invest in what people see.”
Spending a bit of money on a properly fitted bra can also impact a woman’s sense of confidence.
“The idea of touch is so critical in lingerie,” Kemp-Griffin says. “And we are so consumed with the esthetic — how it looks. If women just concentrated on the feel, the texture and the tactile, and start trusting our instincts and more, (they) would be so much more comfortable and confident.”